The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
I would here remark that I changed the process from liming to sweating
in the sole leather in 1836—the only change I have made in tanning for
twenty years; and for sole leather, it has been proved to be quite as
good as liming, if not better, and somewhat cheaper; besides yielding a
greater gain of weight, and when well tanned, making leather more
impervious to water. Liming and “bating,” however, for light leather, is
preferable. Salted hides do not require more than two-thirds the time to
soak; but generally rather longer to sweat. After the hides are prepared
for tanning, the next process is what is commonly called “handling,”
which should be performed two or three times a day in a weak “ooze”
until the grain is colored. New liquors, or a mixture of new and old,
are preferable for Spanish or dry hides—old liquors for slaughter. They
are then, after a fortnight, laid away in bark, and changed once in two
or four weeks, until tanned. Much care and judgment are necessary in
proportioning the continually increasing strength of the liquors to the
requirements of the leather in the different stages of this process. The
liquors should be kept as cool as possible, within certain limits, but
ought never to exceed a temperature of eighty degrees; in fact, a much
lower temperature is the maximum point, if the liquor is very strong;
too high a heat, with a liquor too strongly charged with the tanning
principle, being invariably injurious to the life and color of the
leather. From this it would seem that time is an essential element in
the process of tanning, and that we cannot make up for the want of it by
increasing the strength of the liquor, or raising the temperature at
which the process is conducted, any more than we can fatten an ox or
horse by giving him more than he can eat.
Hides that are treated with liquor below the proper strength become much
relaxed in their texture, and lose a portion of their gelatine. The
leather necessarily loses in weight and compactness, and is much more
porous and pervious to water. The warmer these weak solutions are
applied, the greater this loss of gelatine. To ascertain whether a
portion of weak liquor contains any gelatine in solution, it is only
necessary to strain a little of it in a glass, and then add a small
quantity of a stronger liquor. The excess of tannin in the strong,
seizing upon the dissolved gelatine in the weak liquor, will combine
with it, and be precipitated in flakes, of a dark, curdled appearance,
to the bottom. At the Prattsville Tannery, the greatest strength of
liquor used for “handling,” as indicated by Pike’s _bark-ometer_, (an
instrument to test only FRESHLY made liquors,) is sixteen degrees; of
that employed in laying away, the greatest strength varies from
thirty-five to forty-five degrees.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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