The “Assistant and Guide,” is dedicated to all interested in the great industrial interest which it represents. It is a humble pioneer in a new field, and is submitted with the hope that it may be found a valuable “_assistant_” to those just starting in the first years of their apprenticeship—a “guide” to such as are desirous of perfecting themselves in the calling to which their efforts are directed, and a “companion” to the merchant, and all who seek for information, in the thousand varied channels through which it flows. W. H. R. JR. BOSTON, October, 1858. CONTENTS. [Illustration] INTRODUCTION—An account of the various styles of “covering for feet,” before the Christian Era; with illustrations, xv BOOK I. CHAPTER I. IMPORTANCE OF THE BOOT AND SHOE TRADE, 9 CHAPTER II. RISE AND PROGRESS OF THE BOOT AND SHOE TRADE, 14 CHAPTER III. GUTTA PERCHA—ITS PROPERTIES, MANUFACTURES, &C., &C., 19 CHAPTER IV. GUTTA PERCHA—ITS FIRST APPLICATION AS A CEMENT IN THE UNITED STATES, 39 CHAPTER V. GUTTA PERCHA FOR BELTS, HARNESSES, &C.; ITS APPLICATION TO WOOD WORK, &C., 43 Testimonials, 45 CHAPTER VI. INDIA RUBBER—ITS DISCOVERY, USES, &C., 51 Cleaning Processes, Mackintosh Cloth, 56 Cutting Processes, India Rubber Liquid, Braids and Webs, 58–60 Vulcanized; Comparison of India Rubber and Gutta Percha, 61–65 BOOK II. CHAPTER I. PREPARATION OF STOCK, 66 Middle Soles; Spur or Spring Lifts; To Prepare Leather Soles; To Prepare Counters; Preparation of Stock for Cloth Shoes; Preparation of the Upper Stock; To Prepare Uppers made of any description of Leather, or part Leather and Cloth; Instructions for Lasting; Cementing Processes after Lasting; Directions for applying Thick or Thin Soles to Shoes and Boots; Remarks on Finishing; Taps or Soles for Repairing; Preparing the Boot or Shoe to be Repaired; Important Facts for Manufacturers; Compounds for Heels of Shoes or Boots; Various Fibrous Compounds for Leather Soles, &c.; Practical Hints. CHAPTER II. HINTS AND INSTRUCTIONS ON PATTERN CUTTING, 79