No. 6 is the side view of a gaiter boot upper, with last and block, giving the “pitch” line, concerning which there is quite a diversity of opinion, also the heel line, instep, waist and toes. [Illustration: FIG. 8.—_See page 95._] [Illustration: FIG. 6.—_See page 95._] By measuring the instep of a foot with callippers, one half of the distance gives the centre. Then take the thickness of the large toe in the same manner and half the thickness gives the centre; then draw a line from that to the instep centre—carry the line a short distance beyond, to where the callippers strike the bottom of the foot just in front of the heel, and the end of the last, (as seen by a dotted line in the centre) whatever “pitch” you may give the toes. The “pitch” is governed by the height of the heel as seen in No. 3. Boot cutters make it a convenient practice to draw from that centre, a perpendicular line in order to give the centre of the boot leg at the top, and all is governed by the height of the heel. By a little attention to the front line (No. 7,) will be seen, the true shape of a boot form or crimp, and the back line, the boot properly treed; the centre line, the seam. By passing the eye up the instep measure line, at the top is seen the curve that the fulness represents. That curve, or line, from the toes to the ankle line is carried in, or out, as the heel measure may determine. By having a pattern of that curved line, from the toes to the ankle line, all the variety of fulness is obtained, as is readily seen. The ankle measure in many cases, is three-eighths of an inch shorter in a direct line than the heel line; that is, when these lines are _doubled_, as seen in No. 7. [Illustration: FIG. 7.—_See page 98._] Having a pattern of that curve line from the ankle to the toes, of all styles and varieties of boots and shoes, by moving it out in the same direction as the heel measure, to the instep, one-twelfth of an inch, (as that is a size) as seen in Mr. Parrott’s diagram for cutting uppers; that makes it a size fuller and _vice versa_. As that curved line remains the same through all the sizes, by having that pattern, and one side of it properly curved, for the heel line, and a portion of the same for the bottom line or curve, and those lines properly divided off and numbered, for each size of any desired design, by that pattern _all sizes_ may be cut with ease and accuracy. Some have their several patterns fitted for the varieties of shoes they wish to manufacture. For custom work, they are very convenient. As the measure of the foot is the proper guide, draw the bottom line, then the heel, giving it the position desired for the shoe or boot, then the width of the toes, observing their elevation, as the shoe may be heeled or not. Then apply the heel measure; draw the instep line from the toes to the ankle, draw a line for, or _from_ the toes and ankle, and you have the desired result.