The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
Some cutters draw only one instep curve line, and make one-third of a
size allowance for the length on the heel, and two-thirds of a size on
the toes, for each size, and one-twelfth of an inch on the bottom at the
heel, and a little more on the toes. It produces about the same result,
regulating the height of the quarter by the same heel scale, as fancy
may dictate.
In 1832, we made the first full set of diagram patterns that we ever
used; since that time the principle has spread from Maine to the far
West, and a change has been wrought in the manufacture of shoes by
machinery that causes the old-fashioned manufacturers to blush at the
reflection that new tools, new machines, new ideas, have been introduced
successfully, in spite of their determined opposition. But it must be
confessed that a great proportion of the machines and tools now in
general use, are exceedingly imperfect. Most of the really important
improvements that have been made, are the products of that class of
mechanics who have brains, but shallow pockets. The ideal must always
precede the actual, and the poor shoemaker who conceives an idea that
his superior genius discovers to be really practical, is too often
regarded as an idle dreamer, and the old adage is at once applied, “_Ne
sutor ultra crepidam_”—no shoemaker should go beyond his last.
The science of shoe manufacturing is yet to be greatly changed and
improved. There is, in our opinion, no branch of the mechanic arts more
susceptible of improvement than this; we mean in the process of
manufacture, none that admits of more machinery and tools. All parts of
the stock can be cut and fitted by machinery, far superior to the hand
methods. The rounding of pump out-soles, feather edging, the pricking of
holes or stitches, all in-soles for welted boots or shoes, can be fitted
precisely alike. All this work should be done by the “Boss” before the
work is distributed to the workmen, then, of course, the shape of the
shoe and edges would present a uniform appearance.
The foregoing suggestions may be questioned by those who have little
perception and less knowledge, but nevertheless, the march of progress
will surely witness factories arranged with perfected machinery, so that
all parts of the work will be done under the supervision of skilful and
practical workmen. By improved processes of manufacture, boots and shoes
will be made durable and firm as the stock will admit, and the finish
will far exceed that now produced by the ordinary methods, while those
who take the lead in the market, by the facilities they possess, will be
able to introduce and form the prevailing styles or fashions. There are
many obvious advantages which readily suggest themselves, to be gained
by the introduction of improved machinery which we have not space to
enumerate.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account