The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
Now commence to last the boot in the _shank_; _smooth either side
alternately, towards the toe_, until it fits _smoothly_.
_Remarks._—Judgment should always be used in the manufacture of boots or
shoes for _tender feet_. No _specific_ directions can be given; the good
sense and discretion of the artizan will suggest such modifications of
the rules as the case requires. The instructions given concerning
“corns,” will usually correct the difficulty, but in cases of _general
tenderness_ of the feet, the alterations must be made _throughout_.
Around the _heel_, the _patent leather boot_ should be three-eighths of
an inch _larger_ than is the _calf boot_.
SHOES.
The _last_ should be two sizes _longer_ than the foot in order to secure
comfort. The reason is obvious; the _foot works farther into the shoe_,
than in the boot.
The last, at the instep, should be as wide as the foot, because the
stitching _contracts_ the leather; otherwise the shoe will cause great
discomfort. The shoe should be made one-fourth of an inch _less_ than
measure across the ball of the foot.
GAITER BOOTS.
The last should be made the _same_ as for calf-skin boots, whether
patent leather, or _other_ material.
PREPARATION OF STOCK.
Soak the leather well in water. Remove all the fleshy substance, from
stock of every description.
Draw the in-sole well over the last. Let it remain until _nearly_ dry.
Hammer the in-sole after removal. Next, cut the in-sole as required; by
the sole thus prepared, cut the other sole.
The remainder of the stock should be _nearly_ dry before cutting up.
TO PREVENT SQUEAKING.
Ruff the soles with a rasp, then paste between them. Put every piece
comprising the heel on _separately_, rasp _every_ lift, and paste as
before.
BOOK III.
CHAPTER I.
DISCOVERY
OF THE
SULPHURIZATION AND VULCANIZATION OF INDIA-RUBBER
IN AMERICA.
It may be safely stated that no chemical discovery within the last
century, has produced such wonderful results as those here alluded to.
From being a simple gum, the use of which was limited to the erasure of
the school boy’s blunder, or the merchant’s mistakes, India-rubber, by
the process of vulcanization, has become one of our most important
articles of commerce. It is one of the most wonderful products of nature
that has ever been applied to the arts.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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