In collecting the “Hint’s and Facts,” here presented, we have carefully considered the subject, and examined those tools and machinery that are now in general use in this country; also the drawings of many and various machines, tools, etc., that have been published in England and France. From these sources, and our general observations, experiments, etc., we are fully convinced that the day is not far distant when marked and beneficial changes will be successfully introduced into this all-important branch of the mechanic arts. We will here remark, that in conversation with very many of our most energetic and leading shoe manufacturers, we have found the most sanguine believers in the various improvements suggested. New and improved machinery for sewed, pegged and cemented work; cements for rubber compounds, gutta-percha and chemical unions, are now being successfully introduced, together with new tanning combinations, all of which are yet to take a prominent and important place in the manufacture of boots and shoes. CHAPTER III. INSTRUCTIONS FOR THE Manufacture of French Custom Boots, Shoes, and Gaiters. BY FREDERICK LAUGENBECK. First, place the foot to be measured upon a sheet of white paper. Mark around the foot with a long pencil, being careful to hold it in a perpendicular position. Next, take the circumference across the ball and instep with a tape measure. Next measure the heel and calf. For calf boots, the boot must be one-fourth of an inch _wider_ on the _heel_ than the _foot_, and the _ankle_ one-fourth of an inch _less_ than the _heel_ measure. CALF-LIKE MEASURE OF THE LEG.—LAST MEASURE. The last must be one and one-half of a size _longer_ than the foot, and as wide as the widest part of the foot. For stubb toes, the last should be _one_ size longer. Proper allowance should be made for corns. Place a round knob made of leather, or any other suitable substance, on the last, just the size of the corn, or enlargement, on one or both sides of the last, according to circumstances. The _instep_ must be one-eighth of an inch _less_ than measure. For a sound, healthy foot, make the last one-fourth of an inch _less_ on the _ball_, and three-eighths of an inch less on the _instep_. Patent leather boots, around the ankle must be _full with the measure_ as the stitches _contract_. INSTRUCTIONS FOR LASTING BOOTS. If a boot is well cut, and _not_ properly lasted, the boot _will not fit_. Soak the counters well in water. Paste between _each_. Draw the uppers _smoothly_ over the last, as _tightly_ as the leather _will bear_. In drawing the uppers over the last, the counter should be left about _half way_ into its place or position. After the uppers are well lasted over the ball, then _drive_ the heel last _down to its place_.