The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
History
The Boot and Shoe Manufacturers' Assistant and Guide.: Containing a Brief History of the Trade. History of India-rubber and Gutta-percha, and Their Application to the Manufacture of Boots and Shoes. Full Instructions in the Art, With Diagrams and Scales, Etc., Etc. Vulcanization and Sulphurization, English and American Patents. With an Elaborate Treatise on Tanning.
Footwear industry; Gutta-percha; Rubber; Tanning
The first attempt, of which we have any account, to give style to the
coverings of the feet, produced the _Sandal_. These differed in style,
though slightly varied in form. Those used by the poorer classes were
constructed of flat slices of the palm leaf, which, lapped over in the
centre, formed the sole, and a double band of twisted leaves secured and
strengthened the edge; a thong of the strong fibres of the same plant
was affixed to each side of the instep, and was secured round the foot,
while those indulged in by the more wealthy classes were made of
leather, and were frequently lined with cloth, the point or end turning
up like a pair of modern skates. The sandal reached its greatest
perfection among the Romans. The emperor Aurelian gave the royal
permission to the ladies of his time to wear sandals of various colors,
the men not being permitted to indulge in so great a luxury. The Roman
senators wore buskins of a black color, with a crescent of gold or
silver on the top of the foot, while the soldiers wore simple sandals
fastened by thongs. In the reign of Edward the Third, of England, those
who worked at the shoe trade, were denominated the “gentle craft,” as
they produced shoes of the most gorgeous description, the richest
contrasts of color were elaborated and the greatest variety of pattern
devised.
[Illustration: Fig. 1 in this plate displays a beautiful design. It is
supposed to be worn by one of the royal family.]
The English shoe of the middle ages is “beyond all Greek, beyond all
Roman fame.” The second specimen in the engraving is simpler in design,
but not less striking in effect, being colored jet black, and worn with
red hose. Another curious fashion of those times was—see Fig. 3. The
left shoe was _black_ and the stocking _blue_, the other leg of the
wearer being clothed in a _black_ stocking and a _white_ shoe. This shoe
was cut very low over the instep, the heel being entirely covered, and a
band fastened by a small buckle or button passing round the ankle
secured it to the foot.
Coming down to the reign of Richard II., boots and shoes were made of
great length, so that they were _chained to the knee of the wearer_,
that he might walk with some degree of freedom. Of course, only the
nobility could afford so expensive a method of locomotion. Extremes were
introduced from time to time, as in our own day. During the reign of
Edward III., it was enacted that any shoemaker working for the
“unprivileged classes,” should not make any shoes, the toes which should
_exceed two inches in length_, under a penalty of twenty shillings. This
edict had the effect to _widen_ the toes to a most absurd extent; this
fashion was followed by a proclamation from Queen Mary, that the _width_
of the toes should not _exceed six inches_.
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