The British Expedition to the CrimeaRussell, William Howard, Sir
History
The British Expedition to the Crimea
Russell, William Howard, Sir
Crimean War, 1853-1856
After midnight we arrived at Gallipoli, and anchored. No one took the
slightest notice of us, nor was any communication made with shore. When
the _Golden Fleece_ arrived there was no pilot to show her where to
anchor, and it was nearly an hour ere she ran out her cable in nineteen
fathoms water. No one came off, for it was after midnight, and there was
something depressing in this silent reception of the first British army
that ever landed on the shores of these straits.
When morning came we only felt sorry that nature had made Gallipoli, a
desirable place for us to land at. The tricolor was floating right and
left, and the blue coats of the French were well marked on shore, the
long lines of bullock-carts stealing along the strand towards their camp
making it evident that they were taking care of themselves.
Take some hundreds of dilapidated farms, outhouses, a lot of rickety
tenements of Holywell-street, Wych-street, and the Borough--catch up,
wherever you can, any of the seedy, cracked, shutterless structures of
planks and tiles to be seen in our cathedral towns--carry off odd sheds
and stalls from Billingsgate, add to them a selection of the huts along
the Thames between London-bridge and Greenwich--bring them, then, all
together to the European side of the Straits of the Dardanelles, and
having pitched on a bare round hill sloping away to the water's edge, on
the most exposed portion of the coast, with scarcely tree or shrub,
tumble them "higgledy piggledy" on its declivity, in such wise that the
lines of the streets may follow on a large scale the lines of a bookworm
through some old tome--let the roadways be very narrow, of irregular
breadth, varying according to the bulgings and projections of the
houses, and paved with large round slippery stones, painful and
hazardous to walk upon--here and there borrow a dirty gutter from a back
street in Boulogne--let the houses lean across to each other so that the
tiles meet, or a plank thrown across forms a sort of "passage" or
arcade--steal some of the popular monuments of London, the shafts of
national testimonials, a half dozen of Irish Round Towers--surround
these with a light gallery about twelve feet from the top, put on a
large extinguisher-shaped roof, paint them white, and having thus made
them into minarets, clap them down into the maze of buildings--then let
fall big stones all over the place--plant little windmills with
odd-looking sails on the crests of the hill over the town--transport the
ruins of a feudal fortress from Northern Italy, and put it into the
centre of the town, with a flanking tower at the water's edge--erect a
few wooden cribs by the waterside to serve as _café_, custom-house, and
government stores--and, when you have done this, you have to all
appearance imitated the process by which Gallipoli was created. The
receipt, if tried, will be found to answer beyond belief.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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