The British Expedition to the CrimeaRussell, William Howard, Sir
History
The British Expedition to the Crimea
Russell, William Howard, Sir
Crimean War, 1853-1856
Æolus must have taken his abode somewhere in the neighbourhood of
Gallipoli since he removed his Court from Lipari. The unseasonable
rapidity with which he opens his bags, and the violence with which he
sends forth the sharpest and most truculent of all the winds to sweep
over the hills around this miserable spot, would satisfy Juno in her
most indignant mood if the place were a Trojan colony. The extraordinary
suddenness of these changes and the excessive variations of temperature
were very trying to the men in camp, but the average of illness and
disease was rather below that of most camps in ordinary circumstances.
The sun rises, perchance, from behind the hills of Asia Minor without a
cloud to mar his splendour; the Sea of Marmora, bounded by the faint
blue lines of the highlands of Asia and the distinctive sweep of the
European coast, spreads out towards the north-west like a sheet of
burnished silver; the Dardanelles flows swiftly between the contracted
channel as smoothly as the Thames in summer time by the pleasant meads
of Chertsey. There is a rich sylvan look about the scenery, for at a
distance the hills around Lampsaki, across the straits, appear to be
dotted with verdant lawns and plantations; and the outline of the high
grounds, rising tier after tier till they are capped by the lofty range
which stretches along the background from Ida in the Troad, is subdued
and regular.
The villages built in the recesses of the hills and in the little bays
and creeks of the straits, surrounded by all the enchantment of
distance, look clean and picturesque, the dark groves of cypress casting
into bright relief the whitewash of the houses and the tall shafts of
minarets standing out gracefully from the confused mass of roofs,
gables, masts, yards, and sails by the seaside. Further south the coasts
close in abruptly, and the straits are like a long Highland loch. The
land around Gallipoli on the European side of the straits is more bleak
and more level. Indeed, for miles around the town (except towards the
south, where there is a very small table-land with patches of trees),
and all the way across to the Gulf of Saros, the country very much
resembles the downs about Brighton. It is nearly as destitute of wood or
plantations. The soil, which is light, but deep and rather sandy,
produces excellent crops, but bears no trees, except a few figs and
olives. The vines, which are planted in rows, not trailed as in Italy,
are abundant, and the grape yields a rich, full, and generous wine,
which is highly esteemed. Into the soil, which is just scratched up by
ploughs rather inferior to those described by Virgil 1800 years ago, the
dejected rayahs are busied throwing the corn and barley seed; and as the
slow steers or huge lumbering buffaloes pace along the furrows, they are
followed by a stately army of storks, which march gravely at the very
heels of beast and ploughman, and engage themselves busily in destroying
the grubs and larvæ.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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