Chinatown is not far off from the heart of the city. And Chinatown
pervades San Francisco. It is as though it distilled some faint oriental
perfume with which constantly it suffuses the air. You meet the Chinese
everywhere. The men differ in no wise from the men with whom the smaller
Chinatowns of the East have acquainted us. The women make the streets
exotic. Little, slim-limbed creatures, amber-skinned, jewel-eyed,
dressed in silk of black or pastel colors, loosely coated and
comfortably trousered, their jet-black shining hair filled with
ornaments, they go about in groups which include old women and young
matrons, half-grown girls slender as forsythia branches, babies arrayed
like princes. You are likely to meet groups of Hindus, picturesquely
turbaned, coffee-brown in color, slight-figured, straight-featured,
black-bearded. You see Japanese and Filipinos. And as for
Latins--French, Italians and Spanish flood the city. There are eight
thousand Montenegrins alone in California. I never suspected there
were eight thousand in Montenegro. And our own continent contributes
Canadians, Mexicans, citizens from every State in the Union. In
addition, you run everywhere into soldiers and sailors. The bits of
talk you overhear in the street are so exciting that you become a
professional eavesdropper, strong-languaged, picturesquely slangy,
pungent narrative. Sometimes the speaker has come up from Arizona, or
New Mexico or Texas, sometimes down from Alaska, Washington or Oregon,
sometimes across from Nevada or Montana or Wyoming. And with many of
them--at least with those that live west of the rocky mountains--San
Francisco is always (and I never failed to respond to the thrill of it)
"the city". Not a city or any city, but the city--as though there were
no other city on the face of the earth.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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