Deeper and narrower grew the dell;
It seemed some mountain, rent and riven,
A channel for the stream had given,
So high the cliffs of limestone gray
Hung beetling o'er the torrent's way.
SCOTT.
THE limestone Dales of Derbyshire are narrow and deep, and their
streams, when visible (for they often lurk underground), are swift,
strong, and of crystal clearness. The sides of the glens are in some
places precipitous with bluffs and pinnacles of grey rock; in others,
ridged and streaked with terraces of alternate crag and turf; above the
cliffs there is often a tableland of bleak pastures divided by stone
walls, as dreary a scene as could be imagined, when contrasted with the
picturesque dales below.
The flowers of these limestone valleys immediately recall those of the
chalk: the marjoram, the basil, the great knapweed, the traveller's-joy,
the rock-rose, the musk-thistle--these and many other familiar friends
make us seem, at first sight, to be back in Sussex or Surrey. But in
reality we are a hundred and fifty miles nearer to the arctic zone, and
that difference is clearly reflected in the flora; for when we look
around, a number of new plants make their appearance, of which a dozen
or more are very rare, or quite unknown, in the south. I once lived for
several years on the hills above Chesterfield, a good way to the east of
this limestone country; and to visit the nearest of the Dales there was
a walk of seven miles, to and fro, across the intervening high moors
that form the southern buttress of the Pennines. Stoney Middleton is far
from being one of the pleasantest of Peakland villages; but such was the
interest of its flora that the fourteen-mile trudge, and more, was often
undertaken during the summer months.
After traversing the great heathery moors devoted to the cult of the
grouse, and descending from the rocky rampart of gritstone known as
Curbar Edge, one crosses the valley of the Derwent; and here a pause may
be made to notice a patch of sweet Cicely, one of the loveliest of the
umbelliferous tribe. It is a charming sight, as it stands up tall in the
sunshine, with its soft feathery cream-white masses of foliage and its
fernlike leaflets; too fair and fragile, it would seem, for human hands,
for it droops very soon if cut. Every part of it--stalk, leaves,
flowers, and fruit--has the same aromatic fragrance (its local name is
"anise"), and so gracious is it to sight, scent, and touch, that one
longs to bathe one's senses in its luxuriance.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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