But this bare valley, botanically regarded, is a bit of the far North,
interpolated between Durham, Westmorland, and Yorkshire, where the
Teesdale basalt or "whinstone" affords an advanced station for many
rare plants of the highland type as they trend southward; and there, for
five or six miles, from the upper waterfall of Caldron Snout to that of
High Force, the banks of the Tees, with the rough pastures, scars, and
fells that form its border, hold many floral treasures.
The first flower to attract attention on these wild lawns is that queen
of violets, the mountain pansy (_viola lutea_), not uncommon on many
midland and northern heaths, but nowhere else growing in such
prodigality as here, or with such rich mingling of colours--orange
yellow, creamy white, deep purple, and velvet black--till the eye of the
traveller is sated with the gorgeous tints. To the violet tribe this
pansy stands in somewhat the same relation as does the bird's-eye
primrose to the _primulas_; it is a mountain cousin, at once hardier and
more beautiful than its kinsfolk of wood and plain. Seeing it in such
abundance, we can understand why Teesdale has been described as "the
gardener's paradise;" but the expression is not a fitting one, for
"gardener" suggests "trowel," and the nurseryman is the sort of Peri to
whom the gates of this paradise ought to be for ever closed.
But perhaps the first stroll which a visitor to Upper Teesdale is likely
to take, is by the bank of the river just above High Force; and here the
most conspicuous plant is a big cinquefoil, the _potentilla fruticosa_,
a shrub about three feet in height, bearing large yellow flowers. Rare
elsewhere, it is in exuberance beside the Tees; and I remember the
amused surprise with which a dalesman regarded me, when he saw my
interest in a weed that to him was so familiar and so cheap.
But the smaller notabilities of the district have to be personally
searched for; they do not obtrude themselves on the wayfarer's glance.
On the Yorkshire side of the stream stands Cronkley Scar, a buttress of
the high moor known as Mickle Fell; and here, in the wet gullies, may be
found such choice northern plants as the Alpine meadow-rue; the Scottish
asphodel (_Tofieldia_), a small relative of the common bog-asphodel; and
the curious viviparous bistort, another highland immigrant, bearing a
spike of dull white flowers and small bulbs below.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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