The fell above the scar is a desolate tract, frequented by golden plover
and other moorland birds. On one occasion when I ascended it I was
overtaken by a violent storm of wind and rain, which compelled me to
leave the further heights of Mickle Fell unexplored, and to retreat to
the less exposed pastures of Widdibank on the opposite side of the Tees,
here a broad but shallow mountain stream, which in dry weather can be
forded without difficulty but becomes a roaring torrent after heavy
rains. In the course of two short visits, one in mid-July, the other in
the spring of the following year, I twice had the opportunity of seeing
the river in either mood, first in unruffled tranquillity, then in
furious spate.
It is in May or early June that Teesdale is at the height of its glory;
for the plant which lends it a special renown is the spring gentian,
perhaps the brightest jewel among all British flowers, small, but a true
Alpine, and of that intense blue which signalizes the gentian race. Here
this noble flower grows in plenty, not in wide profusion like the
pansies, but in large and thriving colonies, not confined to one side of
the stream. It was on the Durham bank that I first saw it--one of those
rare scenes that a flower-lover cannot forget, for the blue gentians
were intermingled with pink bird's-eye primroses, only less lovely than
themselves, and close by were a few spikes of the Alpine bartsia, whose
sombre purple was in marked contrast with the brilliant hues of its
companions.
Of this rare bartsia I had plucked a single flower on my previous visit
to the same spot, but then in somewhat hurried circumstances. I had been
crossing the wide pastures near Widdibank farm in company with a friend,
who, having heard rumours of the temper of Teesdale bulls, had unwisely
allowed his thoughts to be somewhat distracted from the pansies. We were
in the middle of a field of vast extent, when I heard my companion
asking anxiously: "Is _that_ one?" It certainly _was_ one; not a pansy,
but a bull; and he was advancing towards us with very unfriendly noises
and gestures. We therefore retired as quickly as we could, without
seeming to run--he slowly following us--in the direction of the river;
and there, under a high bank, over which we expected every moment the
bulky head to reappear, I saw the Alpine bartsia, and stooped to pick
one as we fled, my friend mildly deprecating even so slight a delay.
Now, however, on my second visit, I was able to examine the bank at my
leisure, and to have full enjoyment of as striking a group of flowers as
could be seen on English soil--gentian, bird's-eye primrose, Alpine
bartsia--and as if these were not sufficient, the mountain pansy running
riot in the pasture just above.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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