I have spoken of Snowdonia in the spring; let us view it now in the
fulness of June or July, when its flora is at its richest. It is not
till you have climbed to a height of about two thousand feet that the
true joys of the mountains begin. At first, perhaps, as you follow the
course of the stream you will see nothing more than a bunch of white
scurvy-grass or a spray of golden-rod; but when you reach the region
where the thin cascade comes sliding down over the moist rocks, and the
topmost cliffs seem to impend, then you will have your reward, for you
have entered into the kingdom of the Alpines.
Suppose, for example, that you stand at the foot of the narrow ridge of
Crib-y-Ddysgl, a great precipice which overhangs the upper chambers of
Cwm Glas on the northern side of Snowdon, with an escarpment formed of
huge slabs of rock intersected by wet gullies, narrow niches, and
transverse terraces of grass. Looking up, to where the Crib towers
above, you will see a goodly array of plants. Thrift is there, in large
clumps as handsome as on any sea-cliffs; rose-root, the big
mountain-stonecrop; cushions of moss-campion, which bears the local name
of "Snowdon pink"; lady's-mantle, intermixed with the reddening leaves
of mountain-sorrel; Welsh poppy, not so common a flower in Wales as its
name would suggest; and at least three kinds of beautiful white
blossoms--the starry saxifrage, the mossy saxifrage, and the shapely
little sandwort (_arenaria verna_), as fair as the saxifrages
themselves, and what higher praise could be given? The flower-lover can
scarcely hope for greater delight than that which the starry saxifrage
will yield him. It has been well said that "one who has not seen it
growing, say, in some rift of the rock exposed by the wearing of the
mountain torrent, cannot imagine how lovely it is, or how fitly it is
named. White and starry, and saxifrage--how charming must that which has
three such names be!"[20]
[Footnote 20: _Wild Flowers of Scotland_, by J. H. Crawford.]
Another lofty rock-face, similar in its flora to that of Snowdon, is the
precipice at the head of Cwm Idwal, near the point where it is broken by
the famous chasm of the Devil's Kitchen. Hereabouts is the chief station
of the _Lloydia_, or spiderwort, a rather rare and pretty Alpine, a
delicate lily of the high rocks, bearing solitary white flowers veined
with red, and a few exceedingly narrow leaves that resemble the legs of
a spider. Unlike most mountain plants, it has a considerable local
reputation; and during its short flowering season in June one may
observe small parties of enthusiasts from Bangor or Carnarvon,
diligently scanning the black cliffs above Llyn Idwal, in the hope of
spying it. The place where I first saw the _Lloydia_ in blossom was Cwm
Glas; but I had previously noticed its long thin leaves in two or three
places around the Devil's Kitchen.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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