The haunts of the Alpine meadow-rue (_thalictrum alpinum_) are similar
to those of the spiderwort; and a most elegant little plant it is, its
gracefully drooping terminal cluster of small yellowish flowers being
borne on a simple naked stem, whereas its less aristocratic relative,
the smaller meadow-rue (_t. collinum_), which is much commoner on these
rocks, is bushier and more branched. I had many disappointments, before
I rightly apprehended the true Alpine species; once distinguished, it
cannot again be mistaken.
It was to a chance meeting in Ogwen Cottage, at the foot of Cwm Idwal,
with Dr. Lloyd Williams, a skilled botanist who had brought a party of
friends to visit the home of the _Lloydia_, that I owed my introduction
to another very beautiful inhabitant of those heights, the white
mountain-avens, known to rock-gardeners as _dryas octopetala_. Happy is
the flower-gazer who has looked on the galaxy, the "milky way," of those
fair mountain nymphs--for the plant is in truth an oread rather than a
dryad--where they shed their lustre from certain favoured ledges in a
spot which it is safer to leave unspecified. I must have passed close to
the place many scores of times, in the forty or more years during which
I had known the mountain; yet never till then did I become aware of the
treasure that was enshrined in it!
But of all the glories of Cwm Idwal--rarities apart--the greatest, when
the summer is at its prime, is the array of globe-flowers. This splendid
buttercup usually haunts the banks of mountain streams, or the sides of
damp woods, in the West country and the North; its range is given in the
_Flora of the Lake District_ as not rising above nine hundred feet; but
in Snowdonia, not content to dwell with its cousins the kingcups and
spearworts in the upland valleys, it aspires to a far more romantic
station, and is seen blooming in profusion at twice and almost three
times that height on the most precipitous rock-ledges.[21] One may gaze
by the hour, enraptured, and never weary of the sight.
[Footnote 21: In the Cairngorm mountains, the globe-flower ascends to a
height of 3,000 feet (see Mr. Seton Gordon's _Wanderings of a
Naturalist_); in the Alps to 8,000.]
I have by no means exhausted the list of notable Snowdonian flowers that
are native in the two localities of which I have spoken, or in a few
other spots that are similarly favoured by geological conditions: the
sea-plantain, the mountain-cudweed, the stone-bramble, the queer little
whitlow-grass with twisted pods (_draba incana_), its still rarer
congener the Alpine rock-cress, and the _Saussurea_, or Alpine
saw-wort--all these, and more, are to be found there by the pilgrim who
devotedly searches the scriptures of the hills. But of the _Saussurea_
some mention will have to be made in the next chapter; for it is now
time to turn from Cambria to Cumbria, from the "cwms" and "cribs" of
Snowdon to the "coves" and "edges" of Helvellyn.
XXIV
COVES OF HELVELLYN
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