On the east side, however, where its "dark brow" overlooks the Red Tarn,
and throws out two great lateral ridges--on the right, in De Quincey's
words, "the awful curtain of rock called Striding Edge," and Swirrel
Edge on the left--Helvellyn is a very fine mountain, and what is more to
the present purpose, is botanically the most interesting of all the
Lakeland fells. From Grisedale Tarn to Keppelcove, a distance of full
three miles, that great escarpment, with the several "coves" that nestle
beneath it, is the home of many rare Alpine flowers, corresponding in
that respect with the Welsh rock-faces of Idwal and Cwm Glas; and though
it does not offer so conspicuous a display, or such keen inducements to
flower-gazing, a search along its narrow ledges, and under the impending
crags, home of the hill fox, will seldom disappoint the adventurer.
Some years ago I spent a week of July, in two successive seasons, at
Patterdale, for the purpose of becoming better acquainted with the
mountain flowers, but on both occasions the weather was very stormy and
made it difficult to be on the fells. At first I searched chiefly under
Striding Edge and the steep front of Helvellyn, among the rocks that
lie behind the Red Tarn, and in similar places above Keppelcove Tarn in
the adjoining valley, hoping with good luck to light on the
snow-saxifrage. In this I was unsuccessful; but I twice found a plant I
had not hitherto met with--in appearance a small spineless thistle, with
a cluster of light-purple scented flowers--which proved to be the Alpine
saw-wort, or _Saussurea_, and which in later years I saw again on
Snowdon. A blossom which I picked and kept for several months was so
little affected by its separation from the parent stem that it continued
its vital processes in a vase, and passed from flowering to seeding
without interruption. Like the orpine, it was a veritable "live-long,"
or as the politicians say, "die-hard."
At Patterdale I was so fortunate as to make the acquaintance of Mr.
Robert Nixon, a resident who has had a long and intimate knowledge of
the local flora; and he very kindly devoted a day to showing me some of
his flower-haunts on Helvellyn. In the course of this expedition, one of
the pleasantest in my memory, a number of interesting plants were noted
by us: among them the mountain-pansy; the cross-leaved bedstraw; the
vernal sandwort; the Alpine meadow-rue; the moss-campion; the purple
saxifrage, now past flowering; the mountain willow-herb (_epilobium
alsinifolium_), not the true Alpine willow-herb, but a native of similar
places among the higher rills; and the _salix herbacea_, or "least
willow," the smallest of British trees, which when growing on the bare
hill-tops is not more than two inches in height, though in the clefts of
rock at the edge of the main escarpment we found it of much larger size.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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