I climbed the dark brow of the mighty Helvellyn.
SCOTT.
SO far I have spoken more of the Welsh mountain flowers than of those
belonging to Lakeland; but the difference between the two districts, in
regard to their respective floras, is not very great, and with a few
exceptions the plants that are native on the one range may be looked for
on the other. The _Lloydia_ is found in Snowdonia only; and Wales can
boast, not a monopoly, but a greater plenty of the moss-campion and the
purple saxifrage. On the other hand, the Alpine lady's-mantle and the
yellow mountain-saxifrage, both abundant in Cumberland, are absent from
Carnarvonshire; and this is somewhat of a loss, for the common
lady's-mantle, charming though it is, lacks the beauty of the Alpine,
and the yellow saxifrages, as they hang from the rocks like a phalanx of
tiny golden shields--each with bright petals and pale green sepals
radiating from a central boss--are among the greatest ornaments of the
fells.
Again, the lovely little bird's-eye primrose is a North-country plant
which is not found in Wales; against which may be set, perhaps, that gem
of the damp mosses on certain Welsh streamsides, the ivy-leaved
bell-flower. More characteristic of Lakeland than of Snowdonia, though
not peculiar to it, are those two very beautiful flowers, the one a
child of the swamp, the other of the high pastures, the grass of
Parnassus, and the mountain-pansy; and to conclude the list, the
snow-saxifrage and the mountain-avens are about equally rare in both
countries--the avens, indeed, is confined to one or two stations, where
fortunately it is little known.
Helvellyn, as a mountain, is very inferior to Snowdon, nor indeed can it
compete in grandeur with its own Cumbrian neighbours, the Great Gable
and Scafell; but among visitors to the Lakes it has nevertheless an
enduring reputation, largely due to the poems in which Scott and
Wordsworth have sung its praises. Accordingly, during the tourist
season, the anxious question: "Is that Helvellyn?" may often be
overheard; and on a fine day all sorts of incongruous persons may be
seen making their way up the weary slopes that lead from Grasmere to its
crest. I once observed a gentleman in a top-hat toiling upward in the
queue; on another occasion I witnessed at the summit a violent quarrel
between a married couple, the point of dispute (on which they appealed
to me) being whether their little dog was, or was not, in danger of
being blown over the cliffs. As the west wind was certainly very strong,
and Helvellyn had already been associated with the story of a dog's
fidelity, I ventured to advise a retreat.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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