The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
The name of Hereward's stronghold offers a fine blue-mouldy bone of
contention for rival antiquaries to gnaw at. In face of the clamour
of disputants on this subject, it behoves us to take no side, but
just to report the theories advanced. The most favoured view,
then, is that "Aldreth" enshrines a corruption of St. Etheldreda's
name,--that Etheldreda who was variously known as St. Ethelthryth and
St. Audrey,--and that it was originally none other than St. Audrey's
Hythe, or Landing, on this very stream of Ouse, now much shrunken and
running in a narrow channel, instead of spreading over the country in
foul swamps and unimaginable putrid bogs. "Aldreche"--the old reach
of this Ouse--is another variant put forward; but it does not seem to
occur to any of these disputants that, at anyrate, the termination of
the place-name is identical with that in the names of Meldreth and
Shepreth, where little streams, the mere shadows and wraiths of their
former selves, still exist to hint that it was once necessary to ford
them, and that, whatever the first syllable of Meldreth may mean,
"reth" is perhaps the Celtic "rhyd," a ford, and Shepreth just the
"sheep ford."
But whatever may have been the original form of Aldreth's name, the
village nowadays has nothing to show of any connection with St.
Etheldreda, save the site only of a well dedicated to her, situated
half-way up the steeply rising street. It is a curious street, this
of Aldreth, plunging down from the uplands of the Isle into the peat
and ooze that William so laboriously crossed. Where it descends you
may still see the stones with which he, or others at some later time,
paved the way. For the rest, Aldreth is one long street of rustic
cottages very scattered and much separated by gardens: over all a look
of listlessness, as though this were the end of the known world, and
nothing mattered very much. When a paling from a garden fence falls
into the road, it lies there; when the plaster falls from a cottage
wall, no one repairs the damage; when a window is broken, the hole is
papered or stuffed with rags: economy of effort is studied at Aldreth.
The curious may still trace William's route through the Isle, to Ely
city. It is not a straight course. Geographical conditions forbade it
to be so, and I doubt not, that if the road were to make again, they
would still forbid; for to rule a straight line across the map from
Aldreth to Ely is to plunge into hollows where water still lies, though
actual fens be of the past. His way lay along two sides of a square;
due north for three miles and almost due east for a like distance,
along the track pursued nowadays by the excellent road uphill to where
the mile-long and populous village of Haddenham stands on a crest, and
down again and turning to the right for Witchford, whence, along a
gentle spur, you come presently into Ely.
XXXV
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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