The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
It is here, at this meeting of the waters, that "Rebeck, or Priests'
Houses," is marked on the maps of Speed and Dugdale, and attributed to
the thirteenth century, but what this place was, no man knoweth. It has
clean vanished from sight or knowledge, and the houses of Brandon Creek
hamlet afford no clue, being wholly secular and commonplace, from the
inn that stands at the meeting of the rivers to the humble cottages of
the bankers and the gaulters.
Southery Ferry is but a little distance ahead, to be recognised by the
inn that stands on the river bank. It is a lonely ferry, and little
wonder that it should be, considering the emptiness of the country
on the other side,--all fens at the Back of Beyond, to whose wastes
cometh the stranger never, where the bull-frogs croak, the slodger
slodges among the dykes, and the mists linger longest.
[Illustration: THE OUSE.]
Away ahead sits Southery village, enthroned upon its hillock, once an
island in the surrounding fen, and still, in its prominence against
the skyline, telling its story plain for all to learn. Even if it
were not thus evident from Southery Ferry how the village of old sat
with its feet in the mud and its head on the dry land, at least the
pilgrim's wheels presently advise him in unmistakable fashion that he
is on an ascent. There is little in the village itself to interest
the stranger. The spire so picturesquely crowning the hill in the
distant view is found on close acquaintance to be that of a modern
church, filled with the Papistical abominations commonly found in
these days of the forsworn clergy of the Church of England. The old
church of St. Mary, disused forty years ago, and now in ruins, stands
at a little distance, in a bend of the road, overlooking many miles
of what was once fen. There it stands in its heaped-up graveyard, a
shattered and roofless shell of red-brick and rubble walls, thickly
overgrown with ivy, and neighboured by an old windmill as battered and
neglected as itself. From a field-gate overlooking the levels you see,
in the distance, the high ground about Thetford, and, near at hand,
an outlying part of Southery called Little London. An old inhabitant
shares the field-gate and the outlook with the present writer, and
surveys the many miles with a jaundiced eye. He remembers those lands
below, when he was a boy, all swimming with water. Now they are
drained, and worth ever so much an acre, "'cause they'll, as you might
say, grow anything. But a man can't earn mor'n fourteen shillun a week
here. No chance for nobody."
[Illustration: SOUTHERY FERRY.]
No local patriot he. He was born here, married in the old church forty
years ago, and went away to live in Sheffield. "Ah! that _is_ a place,"
says he. That is a phrase capable of more than one interpretation, and
we feelingly remark, having been there, that indeed a place it _is_.
His regretful admiration of Sheffield is so mournful that we wonder why
he ever left.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Elsewhere in the archive
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account