A LONDON SUBURB IN 1816: TOTTENHAM 39 _From a Drawing by Rowlandson._ WALTHAM CROSS 61 THE "HULL MAIL" AT WALTHAM CROSS 65 _From a Print after J. Pollard._ CHESHUNT GREAT HOUSE 77 HODDESDON 83 WARE 89 BARLEY 105 FOWLMERE: A TYPICAL CAMBRIDGESHIRE VILLAGE 113 MELBOURN 129 TRUMPINGTON MILL 137 TRUMPINGTON STREET, CAMBRIDGE 145 HOBSON, THE CAMBRIDGE CARRIER 159 A WET DAY IN THE FENS 203 ALDRETH CAUSEWAY 219 A FENLAND ROAD: THE AKEMAN STREET NEAR STRETHAM BRIDGE 245 STRETHAM BRIDGE 249 ELY CATHEDRAL 271 _After J. M. W. Turner, R.A._ ELY, FROM THE OUSE 277 JOSEPH BEETON IN THE CONDEMNED CELL 311 THE TOWN AND HARBOUR OF LYNN, FROM WEST LYNN 317 "CLIFTON'S HOUSE" 320 THE CUSTOM-HOUSE, LYNN 323 THE FERRY INN, LYNN 327 ILLUSTRATIONS IN TEXT PAGE VIGNETTE: EEL-SPEARING _Title-page_ PREFACE vii LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS: TAKING TOLL xi THE CAMBRIDGE, ELY, AND KING'S LYNN ROAD 1 THE GREEN DRAGON, BISHOPSGATE STREET, 1856 8 _From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd._ THE FOUR SWANS, BISHOPSGATE STREET, 1855 9 _From a Drawing by T. Hosmer Shepherd._ TOTTENHAM CROSS 38 BALTHAZAR SANCHEZ' ALMSHOUSES, TOTTENHAM 41 WALTHAM CROSS A HUNDRED YEARS AGO 59 THE ROMAN URN, CHESHUNT 76 CHARLES THE FIRST'S ROCKING-HORSE 79 CLARKSON'S MONUMENT 99 A MONUMENTAL MILESTONE 111 THE CHEQUERS, FOWLMERE 115 WEST MILL 118 A QUAINT CORNER IN ROYSTON 125