The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
Melbourn--why not spelled with a final 'e,' like other Melbournes, is
a mystery no inquiry can satisfy--is a large village of much thatch.
Especially is the grey-green velvety moss on the thatch of a row of
yellow plaster cottages beyond the church a thing of beauty, however
rotten the thatch itself may be. Melbourn has a beautiful church and
church-tower, seen in the accompanying picture, but its other glory,
the Great Elm that for many centuries spread a shade over the road by
the church, is now only a memory,--a memory kept green by the sign of
the inn opposite. Everyone in Melbourn lives on fruit. In other words,
this is a great fruit-growing district. This village and its neighbour,
Meldreth, specialise in greengages, and from the railway station that
serves the two, many hundreds of tons of that fruit are despatched
to London in the season. These terms are perhaps vague, but they are
reduced to a more definite idea of the importance of the greengage
harvest when some returns are noted. From Melbourn station, then,
thirty tons a day is an average consignment. Little wonder, then, that
when one has come down from the bleak downs and heaths of Royston to
these sheltered levels, the swelling contours of the windy pastures and
breezy cornfields give place to long lines of orchards.
Cambridgeshire very soon develops its flat and fenny character along
this route, and Melbourn left behind, the road on to Cambridge is a
dead level. The low church-tower just visible to a keen eye, away to
the left, among some clustered trees, is that of Shepreth. Shepreth
hides its modest self from the road: let us take the winding by-way
that leads to it and see what a purely agricultural Cambridgeshire
village, set down in this level plain, and utterly out of touch with
the road, may be like. It needs no great exercise of the deductive
faculty to discover, on the way to Shepreth, that it is not a place
of great or polite resort, for the lane is a narrow and winding way,
half muddy ruts and half loose stones. Beside it crawls imperceptibly
in its deep, ditch-like bed, overhung by pollard willows, a stream that
takes its rise in the bogs of Fowlmere. By what lazy, snakish windings
it ultimately finds its way into the Cam does not concern us. Here and
there old mud-walled cottages, brilliantly white-washed and heavily
thatched, dot the way; the sum total of the village, saving indeed the
church, standing adjoining a farmyard churned into a sea of mud.
The appearance of Shepreth Church is not altogether prepossessing.
The south aisle has been rebuilt in white brick, in a style rivalling
the worst efforts of the old-time chapel-builder; and the old tower,
whose upper stages have long fallen in ruin, shows in the contorted
courses of its stonework how the building has sunk and settled in the
waterlogged soil.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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