The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland HighwayHarper, Charles G. (Charles George)
History
The Cambridge, Ely, and King's Lynn Road: The Great Fenland Highway
Harper, Charles G. (Charles George)
England -- Description and travel; Fens, The (England) -- Description and travel
No reasonable explanation has ever been advanced of the abandonment of
the Ermine Street between Lower Edmonton and Ware, and the choosing
of the present route, running roughly parallel with it at distances
ranging from half a mile to a mile, and by a low-lying course much more
likely to be flooded than the old Roman highway. The change must have
been made at an early period, far beyond the time when history dawns on
the road, for it is always by the existing route that travellers are
found coming and going.
Few know that the Roman road and the coaching road are distinct; and
yet, with the aid of a large-scale Ordnance map, the course of the
Ermine Street can be distinctly traced. Not only so, but a day's
exploration of it, as far as its present condition, obstructed and
diverted in places, will allow, is of absorbing interest.
It makes eleven miles of, in places, rough walking, and often gives
only the satisfaction of being close to the actual site, and not
actually on it. A straight line drawn from where the modern road
swerves slightly to the right at Northumberland Park, Edmonton, to
Ware, gives the direction the ancient road pursued.
The exact spot where the modern road leaves the Roman way is found
at Lower Edmonton, where a Congregational Church stands in an open
space, and the houses on the left hand are seen curving back to
face a lane that branches off at this point. This, bearing the
significantly ancient name of "Langhedge Lane," goes exactly on the
line of the Ermine Street; but it cannot be followed for more than
about a hundred yards, for it is cut through by railways and modern
buildings, and quite obliterated for some distance. Where lanes are
found near Edmonton Rectory on the site of the ancient way, names that
are eloquent of an antiquity closely allied with Roman times begin
to appear. "Bury Hall," and, half a mile beyond it, "Bury Farm,"
neighboured by an ancient moat, are examples. "Bury" is a corruption of
a Saxon word meaning anything, from a fortified camp to a settlement,
or a hillock; and when found beside a Roman road generally signifies
(like that constantly recurring name "Coldharbour") that the Saxons
found deserted Roman villas by the wayside. Beyond Bury Farm the
cutting of the New River in the seventeenth century obscured some
length of the Ermine Street. A long straight lane from Forty Hill Park,
past Bull's Cross, to Theobalds, represents it pretty accurately, as
does the next length, by Bury Green and Cheshunt Great House. Cold
Hall and Cold Hall Green mark its passing by, even though, just here,
it is utterly diverted or stopped up. "Elbow Lane" is the name of it
from the neighbourhood of Hoddesdon to Little Amwell. Beyond that point
it plunges into narrower lanes, and thence into pastures and woods,
descending steeply therefrom into the valley of the Lea by Ware. In
those hillside pastures, and in an occasional wheatfield, a dry summer
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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