Escargotières, or snail-gardens, still exist in many parts of Europe, _e.g._ at Dijon, at Troyes and many other places in central and southern France, at Brunswick, Copenhagen, and Ulm. The markets at Paris, Marseilles, Bordeaux, Toulouse, Nantes, etc., are chiefly supplied by snails gathered from the open country, and particularly from the vineyards, in some of which _Helix pomatia_ abounds. In the _Morning Post_ of 8th May 1868 there is an account of the operation of clearing the celebrated Clos de Vougeot vineyard of these creatures. No less than 240 gallons were captured, at a cost in labour of over 100 francs, it being estimated that these snails would have damaged the vines to an extent represented by the value of 15 to 20 pipes of wine, against which may be set the price fetched by the snails when sold in the market. It is generally considered dangerous to eat snails at once which have been gathered in the open country. Cases have occurred in which death by poisoning has resulted from a neglect of this precaution, since snails feed on all manner of noxious herbs. Before being sent to table at the restaurants in the great towns, they are fattened by being fed with bran in the same way as oysters. The Roman Catholic Church permits the consumption of snails during Lent. Very large numbers are eaten in France and Austria at this time. At the village of Cauderon, near Bordeaux, it is the proper thing to end Carnival with especial gaiety, but to temper the gaiety with a dish of snails, as a foretaste of Lenten mortification. The following species appear to be eaten in France at the present day: _H. pomatia_, _aspersa_, _nemoralis_, _hortensis_, _aperta_, _pisana_, _vermiculata_, _lactea_. According to Dr. Gray, the glassmen at Newcastle used to indulge in a snail feast once a year, and a recent writer informs us that _H. aspersa_ is still eaten by working people in the vicinity of Pontefract and Knottingley.[239] But in this country snails appear to be seldom consciously used as an article of food; the limitation is necessary, for Lovell tells us that they are much employed in the manufacture of cream, and that a retired (!) milkman pronounced it the most successful imitation known.