The Cape and the Kaffirs: A Diary of Five Years' Residence in KaffirlandWard, Mrs.
History
The Cape and the Kaffirs: A Diary of Five Years' Residence in Kaffirland
Ward, Mrs.
South Africa -- History -- Frontier Wars, 1811-1878
We were better off with regard to accommodation than we had been as
inmates of a transport on a former occasion, when we went to Saint
Helena. Our ship was strong, apparently, as a castle, and our
accommodation very superior. With the first favourable breeze we spread
our canvass, and sailed out of Kingstown Harbour, hundreds cheering us
from the shores of green Ireland, while our men responded to their
shouts.
The voyage was dull enough, only varied by a due quantity of parades,
roll-calls, mustering of watches, with a running accompaniment of
bugles, bagpipes, and drums. Our party, in general, was an agreeable
one; the average quantity of ill-humour being small in proportion to our
number, and therefore falling harmlessly enough on those who were
willing to make the best of every thing. We paid by the way a visit to
Madeira.
The view of this beautiful island (or rather of Funchal, the principal
town) in some magazine, is the best representation of it I have seen.
The town is prettily situated, but deplorably spoiled by the narrowness
of its streets. [Note 1.] I was, unfortunately, too much indisposed,--
suffering as I was from the effects of a species of scarlet fever,--to
visit the interior of the island; but even the outskirts of the town
were most refreshing. There was a sound of running waters, a waving of
green boughs, scenting the air with their fragrance, and making me
imagine myself, in my weak state, fanned by the kindly wings of unseen
angels. The last fortnight on shipboard had been passed in great
discomfort: heavy sickness at all times is a severe tax on our patience,
but at sea, in a narrow cabin, where one's weak voice is often drowned
by the creaking of masts, the dashing of the waves, and the hoarse calls
of the seamen, it is beyond all conception to those who have not
similarly suffered. My little tour in my tiny palanquin at Madeira was,
therefore, most delicious. First I lingered in the square, under the
trees, looking at the 11th regiment of Portuguese troops on parade.
Well-dressed, well drilled, well appointed, and withal well looking,
they had every appearance of being an efficient body of men. Then their
harmonious band (no one instrument being heard distinctly above another)
exceeded in sweetness any regimental band I ever heard in our service.
The big drum, instead of being struck with violence, merely swelled in
accompaniment; and, when the fifes took up the strain, the brazen
instruments lowered their tone in perfect unison with the powers of the
lesser ones. This over, I was carried onwards through alleys green with
the foliage of the graceful vine; the distant hills made me long for
refreshing landscapes and "spicy gales," but these were denied me, and
my bearers carried me into a garden adjoining a house which we
understood belonged to the English Consul, but which we found was
tenanted by Lady Harriet D--, who was residing at Madeira for the
benefit of her children's health.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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