The Capitals of Spanish AmericaCurtis, William Eleroy
History
The Capitals of Spanish America
Curtis, William Eleroy
Capitals (Cities) -- Latin America; Cities and towns -- Latin America; Latin America -- Description and travel
With twenty-five or thirty of these naked black men surrounding him,
shoving and pushing one another, screaming, gesticulating, and
performing a war-dance of the most extraordinary description, a timid
man is apt to be deceived by appearances, and imagine that he has fallen
into the hands of a tribe of hungry cannibals, instead of a party of
innocent Sambos who wish to promote his welfare. As soon as these
maniacs discovered we were Americans, they were smart enough to
introduce into the bedlam as much of our mother-tongue as they could
command, making the scene all the more amusing. One big fellow, black as
midnight, with only about half a yard of muslin and a dilapidated panama
hat to protect his person from the elements, jumped up and down, yelling
at the top of his lungs, “Me Americano! me Americano! Me been to
Baltimoore!” Becoming interested in the fellow, we learned that he had
been a sailor on a Spanish man-of-war which several years ago visited
that city.
Among the crowd of howling dervises was a pleasant-looking fellow with a
whole pair of pantaloons and a linen duster on. He was not so noisy as
the rest, and could speak a little English. Taking him aside, I told him
how large our party was, and where we wanted to go. He agreed to take us
and our luggage ashore for two dollars, and was at once engaged;
whereupon, instead of going off and minding their own business, the
crowd began to abuse Pepe--for that, he said, was his name--and the rest
of us in the most violent manner; and when the baggage was brought up
they seized upon it, and each man attempted to carry a piece into his
own boat. But the mate of the steamer was equal to the occasion, and
laid about him with so much energy that the deck was soon cleared.
The street railway only extends to the limits of the city, but a short
walk beyond it gives one a glimpse of the rural tropics. At one end of
the main street, which runs along the river front, is a fortress-crowned
hill, from the summit of which a charming view of the surrounding
country can be obtained, but the better plan is to take a carriage and
drive out a few miles. The road is rough and dusty, but passes among
cocoa-nut groves and sugar plantations, through forests fairly blazing
with the wondrous passion-flower, so scarlet as to make the trees look
like living fire; with pineapple-plants and banana-trees bending under
the enormous loads of fruit they carry. The rickety old carriage passed
along until our senses were almost bewildered by visions none of us had
ever seen. Nowhere can one find a more beautiful scene of tropical
vegetation in its full glory, and no artist ever mingled colors that
could convey an adequate idea of nature’s gorgeousness here.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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