The Caravan Route between Egypt and SyriaLudwig Salvator, Archduke of Austria
History
The Caravan Route between Egypt and Syria
Ludwig Salvator, Archduke of Austria
Palestine -- Description and travel
Proceeding still in a westerly direction, we came to the telegraph
posts and the beginning of the route leading through the desert, which
now lay unrolled before us. This road is the same by which we came to El
Harish. Ruins of old buildings, asserted by the inhabitants to date from
the time of the crusades, strewed the ground in every direction. In some
cases the foundations might be clearly traced. It is said that old coins
are still found now and then under the ruins. From the numerous aloes
growing, it is perhaps to be inferred that graves once existed at this
spot. A good view is obtained there of the place and its surroundings,
including the sea and the verdant edge of the palm wood near it.
The lazaretto is a wretched building, with a flagstaff and two houses
projecting on the two sides. The entrance is from the side fronting the
road towards Syria. In the rear is a yard, containing a small garden but
no supply of water, which has therefore to be brought from the Wadi. The
houses are of the same character as those of El Harish generally, but
slightly more European in style. In the larger lives the deputy
commissioner, the smaller being occupied by his adjutant, who is a
remarkable example of the mixture of races so common in this country.
His father was a Dalmatian, whose family came from Sebenico, and he
himself was born in Egypt of a Nubian mother, being therefore almost a
mulatto. He was educated in Dalmatia, and is a Christian.
The quarantine processes do not take place in the building, but are
performed in tents, which are kept in readiness on the premises, and
erected as occasion requires.
From the lazaretto we proceeded in the afternoon towards the sea, which
is beyond the beautiful palm plantations, and not more than
half-an-hour's ride from El Harish. Our path first brought us to the
Koubba of Nebi Gasser (see illustration). This is a quiet burial-place
planted round with dark green tamarisks, strongly contrasting with the
yellow sands, which again are well set off by the background of sea and
sky. The repose and peace of this little spot are intensified by the
neighbourhood of the vast expanses of desert and sea, which here meet as
though to rival each other.
[Illustration: KOUBBA OF NABI GASSER.]
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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