The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
History
The Cathedral Towns and Intervening Places of England, Ireland and Scotland:: A Description of Cities, Cathedrals, Lakes, Mountains, Ruins, and Watering-places.
Silloway, Thomas W. (Thomas William)
Great Britain -- Description and travel
We have employed much space in describing the West End of London--the
Abbey, Parliament Houses, the River. It will be remembered that these
were seen within the first few hours after our arrival. At 6 P.
M. of the same day, Sunday, we continue our walk from the river
embankment, and up to St. Paul's. This edifice stands on slightly
elevated ground, and being very large, with its lofty dome, is of
course readily seen from any point along the river for some miles away.
It is about a mile from Westminster to the cathedral. The land rises
but slightly, but the small elevation was a fact worthy of note; and
so in Pannier Alley, a narrow passage some six or eight feet wide, not
far from the cathedral, is a stone tablet, which has a rude carving
representing a naked boy sitting on a pannier, and on the lower part or
pedestal is the following:--
WHEN Y'V SOVGHT
THE CITTY ROVND
YET STILL THIS IS
THE HIGHEST GROVND
AVGVST THE 27
1688.
St. Paul's is located at a business centre. In front of its principal
end is a square, out of which runs Fleet Street, from Ludgate Hill.
This is one of the busy thoroughfares of the city. About the cathedral,
fenced in with an open iron fence not much unlike that of Boston
Common, is the burial-ground, enclosing all of it but the Fleet Street
end; and the space is not more than fifty feet from the fence to the
building. The whole is grassed over, and has gravestones scattered
promiscuously about. On either side, and across the rear end, is a
street, with a roadway and one sidewalk, with stores bordering it.
This space is of the same width as the burial part of the grounds, and
the entire place has for centuries been known as Paul's Churchyard;
for such it was before the great fire of 1666. For many years it was
celebrated for its second-hand bookstores. Newgate Street, Cheapside,
and other avenues of trade are at the left and rear, making the
situation of the cathedral very much exposed.
In general the buildings of London are modern, the streets are clean,
and there is no look of great antiquity or a very cramped condition. A
scene is presented to view very unlike what one imagines when he hears
of Old London; for so much has been said of its antiquities, great age,
its fogs and smoke, that most people entertain ideas which are far from
the truth. Speaking of this, it may well be said, once for all, that no
great thoroughfare of London is more crowded than Broadway, New York;
and none is narrower, unless we except Cheapside, by Bow Church; and
that is no worse than our Washington Street, between Court and Milk.
Just now we can think of no other street more resembling Cheapside, as
regards width, amount of travel, and general variety and style of its
buildings.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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