The Cathedrals of Southern FranceMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
The Cathedrals of Southern France
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
Here, too, the peasant proprietor is largely in evidence, which is an
undoubted factor in the general prosperity. His blockings, hedgings, and
fencings have spoiled the expanse of hillside and vale in much the same
manner as in Albion. This may be a pleasing feature to the uninitiated,
but it is not a picturesque one. However, the proprietorship of small
plots of land, worked by their non-luxury demanding owners, is
accountable for a great deal of the peace and plenty with which all
provincial France, if we except certain mountainous regions, seems to
abound. It may not provide a superabundance of this world's wealth and
luxury, but the French farmer--in a small way--has few likes of that
nature, and the existing conditions make for a contentment which the
dull, brutal, and lethargic farm labourer of some parts of England might
well be forced to emulate, if even by ball and chain.
Flat-roofed houses, reminiscent of Spain or Italy--born of a mild
climate--add a pleasing variety of architectural feature, while the
curiously hung bells--with their flattened belfries, like the headstones
in a cemetery--suggest something quite different from the motives which
inspired the northern builders, who enclosed their chimes in a
roofed-over, open-sided cubicle. The bells here hang merely in apertures
open to the air on each side, and ring out sharp and true to the last
dying note. It is a most picturesque and unusual arrangement, hardly to
be seen elsewhere as a characteristic feature outside Spain itself, and
in some of the old Missions, which the Spanish Fathers built in the
early days of California.
Between Bayonne and Bordeaux, and bordered by the sea, the Garonne, and
the Adour, is a nondescript land which may be likened to the deserts of
Africa or Asia, except that its barrenness is of the sea salty. It is by
no means unpeopled, though uncultivated and possessed of little
architectural splendour of either a past or the present day.
Including the half of the department of the Gironde, a corner of Lot et
Garonne, and all of that which bears its name, the Landes forms of
itself a great seaboard plain or morass. It is said by a geographical
authority that the surface so very nearly approaches the rectilinear
that for a distance of twenty-eight miles between the dismal villages of
Lamothe and Labonheyre the railway is "a visible meridian."
The early eighteenth-century writers--in English--used to revile all
France, so far as its topographical charms were concerned, with
panegyrics upon its unloveliness and lack of variety, and of being
anything more than a flat, arid land, which was not sufficient even unto
itself.
What induced this extraordinary reasoning it is hard to realize at the
present day.
Its beauties are by no means as thinly sown as is thought by those who
know them slightly--from a window of a railway carriage, or a sojourn of
a month in Brittany, a week in Provence, or a fortnight in Touraine.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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