The Cathedrals of Southern FranceMansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
History
The Cathedrals of Southern France
Mansfield, M. F. (Milburg Francisco)
Cathedrals -- France; France -- Description and travel
The west front has triple portals, reminiscent, as to dimensions, of
Amiens, though by no means so grandly peopled with statues; the heavy,
stunted towers, too, are not unlike those of Amiens. These twin towers
are of a decidedly heavy order, and are not beautiful, either as
distinct features or as a component of the ensemble. Quite in keeping
also are the chief decorations of the façade, which are principally a
series of superimposed medallions, depicting, variously, the signs of
the zodiac, scenes from the life of St. Jean, and yet others suggesting
scenes and incidents from Genesis, with an admixture of heraldic
symbolism which is here quite meaningless and singularly inappropriate,
while still other entablatures present scenes illustrating the "Legend
of St. Nicholas" and "The Law of Aristotle."
The general effect of the exterior, the façade in particular, is very
dark, and except in a bright sunlight--which is usual--is indeed gloomy.
In all probability, this is due to the discolouring of the soft stone of
which the cathedral is built, as the same effect is scarcely to be
remarked in the interior.
In a tower on the south side--much lower, and not so clumsily built up
as the twin towers--hangs one of the greatest _bourdons_ in France. It
was cast in 1662, and weighs ten thousand kilos.
Another curiosity of a like nature is to be seen in the interior, an
astronomical clock--known to Mr. Tristram as "that great clock of
Lippius of Basle." Possessed of a crowing cock and the usual toy-book
attributes, this great clock is a source of perennial pride to the
native and the makers of guide-books. Sterne, too, it would appear,
waxed unduly enthusiastic over this really ingenious thing of wheels and
cogs. He said: "I never understood the least of mechanism. I declare I
was never able yet to comprehend the principles of a squirrel-cage or a
knife-grinder's wheel, yet I will go see this wonderful clock the first
thing I do." When he did see it, he quaintly observed that "it was all
out of joint."
The rather crude coloured glass--though it is precious glass, for it
dates from the thirteenth century, in part--sets off bountifully an
interior which would otherwise appear somewhat austere.
In the nave is a marble pulpit which has been carved with more than
usual skill. It ranks with that in St. Maurice, at Vienne, as one of the
most beautiful in France.
The cathedral possesses two _reliques_ of real importance in the crosses
which are placed to the left and right of the high-altar. These are
conserved by a unique custom, in memory of an attempt made by a _concile
génêral_ of the church, held in Lyon in 1274, to reconcile the Latin and
Greek forms of religion.
The sacristy, in which the bountiful, though not historic, _trésor_ is
kept, is in the south transept.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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