In the XVIth century, Barbara Uttmann invented pillow-net, a great advance in the making of lace. This lady’s father had moved from Nuremberg to the Hartz Mountains, to superintend mines there, and there the daughter married a rich master-miner, Christopher Uttmann, and lived with him in his castle of Annaberg. Seeing the mountain girls weave nets for the miners to wear over their hair, her inventive mind suggested a new and easier way of making fine netting. Her repeated failures we know not of, but we know of her success. In 1561 she set up a workshop in her own name, and this branch of industry spread so that soon 30,000 persons were employed, with a revenue of 1,000,000 thalers. In 1575, the inventress died and was laid to rest in the churchyard of Annaberg, where her tombstone records that she was the “benefactress of the Hartz Mountains.” Honor to Barbara Uttmann! Pillow-lace, as most people know, is made on a round or oval board stuffed so as to form a cushion. On this is fixed a stiff piece of parchment with the pattern pricked on it. The threads are wound on bobbins about the size of a pencil, with a groove at the neck. As many of the threads as will start well together are tied at the ends in a knot, and the knot fastened with a pin at the edge of the pattern; then another bunch, and so on, till the number required by the lace is completed. The lace is formed by crossing or intertwining these bobbins. Hand-made lace is of two kinds, point and pillow. Point means a needle-work lace made on a parchment pattern, also a particular kind of stitch. The word is sometimes incorrectly applied; as, _point de Malines_, _point de Valenciennes_, both these laces being made on a pillow. Lace consists of two parts, the ground and the flower pattern or gimp. The plain ground is called in French _entoilage_, on account of its containing the ornament, which is called _toilé_, from the texture resembling linen, or being made of that material or of muslin. The honeycomb network or ground—in French, _fond_, _champ_, _réseau_—is of various kinds: wire ground, Brussels ground, _trolly_ ground, etc. Double ground is so called because twice the number of threads are required to make it. Some laces, points and guipures, are not worked upon a ground, the flowers being connected by irregular threads worked over with _point noué_ (button-hole stitch), sometimes with pearl loops (_picot_). Such are the points of Venice and Spain and most of the guipures. To these uniting-threads lace-makers in Italy give the name of “legs,” in England “pearl ties,” in France “brides.” The flower is made either together with the ground, as in Valenciennes and Mechlin, or separately, and then either worked in or sewn on (_applique_). The open-work stitches in the patterns are called “modes,” “jours,” or “fillings.”