If barn-yard manure is not too coarse, plowing it under in moderate
amount will, in addition to its fertilizing effect, help to keep the
land moist. Where the cabbage maggot is troublesome the use of fresh
stable manure is thought to promote the attack of that insect, and
therefore only well rotted manure is recommended. Of course a larger
amount of manure may be safely applied if it is well rotted than if it
is coarse and strawy. Liquid manure is used by many growers, being
applied a few weeks before planting, and from time to time during the
season. Water-closet contents, diluted or composted, and applied either
in the liquid or powdered form, is one of the best of fertilizers for
the cauliflower, but it should not be used too freely, or too late in
the season. All coarse or concentrated fertilizers should be applied at
least two weeks before the time for transplanting, and such as are
applied on the surface should be well mixed with the soil.
SOWING THE SEED.
The preparation of the seed-bed will vary according to circumstances. I
formerly grew the plants for the fall crop in beds elevated two or three
feet above the ground, in order to escape the flea beetle, but in later
years I have grown a portion of the plants in the open ground. This
method requires less care, and is now usually practiced by large
growers, though it sometimes fails, for the reason stated. Remedies for
the flea beetle will be found in another chapter. The soil in which the
plants are to be grown should be rich and fine, rather light, and
improved, if necessary, with a little of the finest old rotted manure. A
small amount of lime or ashes raked into the soil is a benefit, and is
thought to prevent the attack of the cabbage maggot, though its value,
if any, for this purpose, is slight. An old brush-heap burnt off makes a
favorite place for sowing cauliflower and cabbage seed, but it is seldom
that market gardeners care to go out of their way to get such a place.
The large cauliflower growers of Long Island usually sow the seed in
drills across one end of the field in which the crop is to be grown,
raking into the soil before sowing, a moderate dressing of some
commercial fertilizer.
It is often recommended to sow the seed on the north side of a fence, or
in some other partially shaded place. I have never seen any necessity
for this, and once spoiled a quantity of plants by growing them in the
partial shade of some large trees. At the South, as elsewhere stated, it
is sometimes necessary to give the young plants shade during the middle
of the day if they are started in the summer months.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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