The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine (May 1913): Vol. LXXXVI. New Series: Vol. LXIV. May to October, 1913Various
History
The Century Illustrated Monthly Magazine (May 1913): Vol. LXXXVI. New Series: Vol. LXIV. May to October, 1913
Various
Periodicals
The woolen industry in the United States is as old as the country
itself. Carried on first as a household industry among the early
colonists, it entered the factory stage with the introduction of
mechanical power, first in connection with carding-machines in 1794,
then with its application to spinning between 1810 and 1820, and later
to weaving in the following decade.
Before the Civil War, all woolens were made by what is known as the
carded-woolen process, which produces a cloth with a rough surface.
Such cloths as tweeds, cheviots, cassimeres, meltons, and kerseys are
among the best-known types of woolen cloth. Just before the Civil War
the worsted industry made its appearance in this country. The worsted
fabric differs from the woolen cloth in being made of combed yarn, as
distinguished from the carded yarn which goes into the woolen cloth.
The combing process involves, to a greater or less extent, the use of
finer and longer grades of wool, and yields a fabric with a smooth
surface, on which the weave is plainly visible. Among the best-known
types of these cloths are the serges and the unfinished clay worsteds,
which constitute the plain varieties, and the so-called fancy worsteds,
showing a distinct pattern produced by the weave and the use of colored
yarn.
How different the course of these two branches of the woolen industry
has been, since the adoption of Schedule K substantially in its
present form, is shown very strikingly by the figures of the United
States Census. In 1859, the last census year preceding the adoption of
Schedule K virtually in its present form, the value of the products of
the woolen industry was nearly $62,000,000, while the worsted could
boast of less than three and three quarter millions. In 1909, exactly
half a century later, the woolen industry produced $107,000,000 worth
of cloth, while the value of the worsteds exceeded $312,000,000. Put in
another form, while fifty years ago the worsted industry was only one
twentieth the size of the woolen, to-day it is three times as large as
its older rival. Nor does this tell the whole story. The decline of the
woolen industry has been not only relative, but absolute. Thus, after
increasing from $62,000,000 in 1859 to $161,000,000 in 1879, it dropped
to $134,000,000 in 1889, to $118,000,000 in 1899, and to $107,000,000
in 1909. On the other hand, the worsted industry showed a marked
increase in each succeeding decade, beating all previous records in the
first decade of the present century, when the value of its output rose
from $120,000,000 in 1899 to more than $312,000,000 in 1909.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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