The Channel IslandsMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Channel Islands
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Channel Islands
Here the cars generally halt for a couple of hours, whilst
the tripper feasts on lobster in the pleasant little inn. The Gouffre
may be taken as roughly the centre of the grand seven miles of cliff
line of this splendid south coast. The section hence to the west is
less frequently explored, though the picturesque cave of the Creux
Mahie, again roughly halfway, is often paid a visit, and is well worth
visiting. Pleinmont and Torteval come into the "Toilers of the Deep";
and this corner of the island, the farthest of all from St. Peter
Port, is luckily less injured than the rest. The north-west coast of
Guernsey, from Pleinmont Point to Vale, past the huge sweeping
hollows--some of them singularly symmetrical--of Rocquaine, Perelle,
Vazon, and Cobo Bays, is chiefly a matter of rocky beach and of slight
elevations shelving down in gentle declivity to the sea. The
glass-houses, moreover, which have languished much at Torteval,
flourish again in amazing vigour as we draw near Cobo Bay. There are
two points of interest, however, in this corner of the island that
justify even the dull, direct journey by which we approach them from
St. Peter Port. The first of these is the little Chapel of St.
Apolline, which is stated in all the guide-books, on documentary
evidence, to have been founded by Nicolas Henry in 1394, or
thereabouts. Even documentary evidence, in architectural matters, is
not always to be trusted. Only the day before writing these lines the
writer was re-visiting the Lady Chapel at St. Albans Cathedral, which
is said to have been built--again on documentary evidence--_circa_
1310; though the Inventory lately published by the Royal Commission on
Historical Monuments adds cautiously: "The tracery of these windows
... is very advanced in character for the date." The tracery, indeed,
is so advanced, if the date be really right, as hopelessly to confuse
all previously held notions as to the systematic evolution of English
architecture. That the building was at any rate finished by this date
is altogether incredible. I notice that the late Lord Grimthorpe, in
his pugnacious little handbook, after setting out the evidence from
the Abbey Records, adds significantly, "but the style of the windows
suggests a much later date." And the case is much the same with this
Chapel of St. Apolline. On October 13, 1392, Nicolas Henry received
permission from the monastery of Mont St. Michel, in Normandy, to
alienate certain fields to provide an endowment for the Chapel of
Notre Dame de la Perelle, _which he had recently erected_; and in an
Act of the Royal Court, dated June 6, 1452, we come across the phrase,
"La Chapelle de Notre Dame de la Perelle appellée la Chapelle Sainte
Apolline." Certainly the identification seems complete. On the other
hand, the writer believes that no one visiting this chapel who has
previously read Professor Baldwin Brown's beautiful volume on Saxon
Architecture--and it so happened that the writer paid his first visit
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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