The Channel IslandsMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Channel Islands
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Channel Islands
is strongly individualized, and rather wild and remote. One feels at
once that this little island has a flavour of its own--a state of
things no longer felt among the villadom and glass-houses of Guernsey.
The strength of Alderney, however, lies chiefly in its west and south
coasts; no one would visit the island except to visit these, or unless
one happened to be an enthusiast for the world's neglected and
inaccessible spots. I do not know how far the barbarous quarrying that
was projected some six or seven years ago on the south side of the
island has since been carried out, or how far it has injured the
amenities of the coast. Anyhow, the Two Sisters, towards the
south-west corner of the island, are hardly to be rivalled in their
splintered grandeur, even in Jersey or Sark.
To Sark we come at last in our long exploration of the Channel
Islands, and for Sark we may well be content to have waited patiently,
and to have wandered far. For this, by universal acclamation, is
certainly the gem of the whole group. Already we have often seen it in
the distance--a long, level line of cliff (save where broken by the
Coupée)--from the north coast of Jersey, or from the piers at St.
Peter Port. Now, as we approach it more closely, threading the narrow
strait between Herm and Jethou, and doubling the cliffs of Little Sark,
at the south corner of the island, this hitherto unbroken, monotonous
wall begins to resolve itself into an infinity of broken cliffs and
promontories, isolating and half concealing a thousand fairy-like
bays. Surely nowhere else is another coast like this--everywhere so
irregular in its general trend and outline--everywhere so deeply
bitten into by the mordant unrest of the sea. Sark, we have said
already, is little else than coast; and certainly it is the coast
which first arrests and charms us, and the coast which lingers last
and most clearly in our memory, when other impressions begin to be
obliterated, or vanish altogether in the steady lapse of years. Not a
yard of this gracious girdle of cliff is monotonous, or repeats
itself, or is even grim (as parts of the coast of Alderney are grim),
or is relatively less interesting, or less beautiful, or dull;
everywhere and always it is singularly lovely, and everywhere and
always at the same high pitch. There is really very little to be said
about Sark, except that the whole island is beautiful throughout:
there is nothing to be gained by giving a long catalogue of successive
promontories, caves, and bays. It was thus that Olivia made a schedule
of her beauty--"_item_, two lips indifferent red; _item_, two grey
eyes, with lids to them; _item_, one neck, one chin, and so
forth"--and at the end of the inventory we have no better picture of
the real Olivia than before she was thus appraised in detail.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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