The Channel IslandsMorris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
History
The Channel Islands
Morris, Joseph E. (Joseph Ernest)
Channel Islands
French, again, is the architecture of the churches, that in some ways
has no parallel in England. French, in many particulars, is the aspect
of the towns, whose long rows of whitewashed houses, with their
never-ending sun-blinds, testify to a warmth and sunlight too
conspicuously rare in England. Actually French are many of the faces
that one encounters in the streets or on the quays. The Channel
Islands of late years have become a favourite touring-ground for
summer visitors from France, who so seldom venture to cross the
Channel to explore the beauties of England itself. The admirable
little _Guides Joanne_ now include a volume on the _Iles Anglaises de
la Manche_. It is amusing, however, to read in this work that in one
respect at least Jersey is still definitely English. "L'observation
stricte du dimanche règne à Saint-Hélier comme en Angleterre. La ville
déserte, avec ses boutiques fermées, offre un silence sépulchral." But
the closed shops, if not the sepulchral silence, are now becoming
common in France itself.
Mont Orgueil, where we stand, is not a bad starting-point from which
to commence our exploration of Jersey. Happy, indeed, the visitor who
arrives at this little port from France--and the steamer comes from
Carteret in little more than an hour. Most English tourists, on the
other hand, make Jersey first at St. Helier, which happens to be a
town of considerable dulness, and compares very badly with St. Peter
Port, in Guernsey. Mont Orgueil, however, may be reached at once from
St. Helier by one of the two strange little railways that traverse the
south coast of the island. The traveller should quit the train at the
previous station of Gorey Village, and walk thence across Gorey Common
to the Castle. This last, placed bravely on its boss of rugged rock,
grows more and more impressive the nearer we approach it. Superb in
situation, and unusually picturesque, this "hill of pride" has yet few
features of real architectural interest. Parts of it date from about
the end of the twelfth century, and the archæologist, of course, will
gather "sermons" from every stone of it. But the ordinary sight-seer
will be best delighted with the picturesque approach up long flights
of steps past successive gateways; with the beautiful views of land
and sea to be got from its towers; and, best of all, by the general
view of the castle itself, dominating the little harbour that crouches
below its walls. The structure is built of a soft-red granite, that is
very pleasant to look on, and not least so in spring, when its broken
walls are beautifully variegated with a thousand brilliantly orange
wallflowers. One is reminded for a moment of the famous verse--
A rose-red city, half as old as time--
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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