The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
History
The Chautauquan, Vol. 03, May 1883
Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle
Chautauqua Institution -- Periodicals; Chautauqua Literary and Scientific Circle -- Periodicals
Anchoring outside the quay we were quickly surrounded by a crowd of
row-boats, with black-faced sailors in a picturesque costume of white
full trowsers, with red jackets and sashes, and red and white turbans.
These boats brought to our ship several visitors, who came to meet
their friends, and it was amusing to see the Oriental salutations and
effusiveness. In our drive of two hours, strange sights met us at every
turn, and the street scenes were most curious and interesting. The
veiled women, with their black, flashing, restless eyes; their flowing
robes of black or blue or white, and their stately gait, made one long
to see their entire countenance and to know what is their manner of
life. There is every variety of color here, from the intense black of
the Nubian to the delicate yellow tinge of the Octoroon. Some of the
children’s faces were attractive, but most of the old faces were so
haggard and evil that it was painful to catch a glimpse of them. Groves
of the date palm, the luscious, freshly-picked fruit of which seemed
to us far more tempting than the leeks and onions after which the
children of Israel lusted; donkeys, carrying their riders far back on
their haunches, and pursued by runners who give the poor animal a shove
when he slackens speed; camels, with their slow gait and quizzical
expression, as much as to say, “Don’t you think I’m handsome? Isn’t
life a great joke?”; merchants, sitting calmly in their booths, smoking
their nargilehs with the utmost unconcern as to custom—these were a few
of a multitude of objects new and striking that attracted our attention.
Pompey’s Pillar is a solid shaft of polished red syenite, which
resembles Scotch granite, and placed on an eminence lifts itself
grandly against the deep blue of the sky. But it was erected in
Diocletian’s time, and that seems quite modern here. The Pasha’s palace
and harem are of stucco, and far from being impressive or elegant. We
drove through the grounds, which have a fountain in the center, a few
sickly looking plants, and a fine view of the sea.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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