The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Next to the boiling of water for its own sake, comes the boiling
of water as a medium for the cooking of other things. Here, at the
outset, I have to correct an error of language which, as too often
happens, leads by continual suggestion to false ideas. When we speak
of ‘boiled beef,’ ‘boiled mutton,’ ‘boiled eggs,’ ‘boiled potatoes,’
we talk nonsense; we are not merely using an elliptical expression, as
when we say, ‘the kettle boils,’ which we all understand to mean the
contents of the kettle, but we are expounding a false theory of what
has happened to the beef, &c.—as false as though we should describe the
material of the kettle that has held boiling water as boiled copper or
boiled iron. No boiling of the food takes place in any such cases as
the above-named—it is merely heated by immersion in boiling water; the
changes that actually take place in the food are essentially different
from those of ebullition. Even the water contained in the meat is not
boiled in ordinary cases, as its boiling-point is higher than that of
the surrounding water, owing to the salts it holds in solution.
Thus, as a matter of chemical fact, a ‘boiled leg of mutton’ is one
that has been cooked, but not boiled; while a roasted leg of mutton is
one that has been partially boiled. Much of the constituent water of
flesh is boiled out, fairly driven away as vapour during roasting or
baking, and the fat on its surface is also boiled, and, more or less,
dissociated into its chemical elements, carbon and water, as shown by
the browning, due to the separated carbon.
As I shall presently show, this verbal explanation is no mere verbal
quibble, but it involves important practical applications. An enormous
waste of precious fuel is perpetrated every day, throughout the whole
length and breadth of Britain and other countries where English
cookery prevails, on account of the almost universal ignorance of the
philosophy of the so-called boiling of food.
When it is once fairly understood that the meat is not to be boiled,
but is merely to be warmed by immersion in water raised to a maximum
temperature of 212°, and when it is further understood that water
cannot (under ordinary atmospheric pressure) be raised to a higher
temperature than 212° by any amount of violent boiling, the popular
distinction between ‘simmering’ and boiling, which is so obstinately
maintained as a kitchen superstition, is demolished.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
Reviews
Reviews
No reviews yet
Be the first to share your thoughts on this work.
Join the Discussion
Join the discussion
Sign in to leave a comment or review.
Sign InorCreate an account