The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The question that now naturally arises is whether modern science can
show us that anything more can be done in the preparation of vegetable
tissue than the mere softening in boiling water. I have already said
that the practice of using the digestive apparatus of sheep, oxen, &c.,
for the preparation of our food is merely a transitory barbarism, to be
ultimately superseded by scientific cookery, by preparing vegetables
in such a manner that they shall be as easily digested as the prepared
grass we call beef and mutton. I do not mean by this that the vegetable
we should use shall be grass itself, or that grass should be one of
the vegetables. We must, for our requirement, select vegetables that
contain as much nutriment in a given bulk as our present mixed diet,
but in doing so we encounter the serious difficulty of finding that the
readily soluble cell wall or main bulk of animal food—the gelatin—is
replaced in the vegetable by the cellulose, or woody fibre, which is
not only more difficult of solution, but is not nitrogenous, is only a
compound of carbon, oxygen, and hydrogen.
Next to the enveloping tissue, the most abundant constituent of the
vegetables we use as food is starch. Laundry associations may render
the Latin name ‘_fecula_’, or ‘_farina_’, more agreeable when applied
to food. We feed very largely on starch, and take it in a multitude
of forms. Excluding water, it constitutes above three-fourths of our
‘staff of life,’ a still larger proportion of rice, which is the
staff of Oriental life, and nearly the whole of arrowroot, sago, and
tapioca, which may be described as composed of starch and water. Peas,
beans, and every kind of seed and grain contain it in preponderating
proportions; potatoes the same, and even those vegetables which we eat
raw, all contain within their cells considerable quantities of starch.
Take a small piece of dough, made in the usual manner by moistening
wheat flour, put it in a piece of muslin and work it with the fingers
under water. The water becomes milky, and the milkiness is seen to be
produced by minute granules that sink to the bottom when the agitation
of the water ceases. These are starch granules. They may be obtained by
similar treatment of other kinds of flour. Viewed under a microscope
they are seen to be ovoid particles with peculiar concentric markings
that I must not tarry to describe. The form and size of these granules
vary according to the plant from which they are derived, but the
chemical composition is in all cases the same, excepting, perhaps, that
the amount of water associated with the actual starch varies, producing
some small differences of density or other physical variations.
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