The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Arrowroot may be taken as an example. To the chemist arrowroot is
starch in as pure a form as can be found in nature, and he applies
this description to all kinds of arrowroot; but, looking at the ‘price
current’ in the ‘Grocer’ of the current week, November 22, 1884,
I find under the first item, which is ‘Arrowroot,’ the following:
‘Bermuda, per lb. 10_d._ to 1_s._ 5_d._;’ ‘St. Vincent and Natal,
1¼_d._ to 7¼_d._;’ and this is a fair example of the usual differences
of price of this commodity. Five farthings to 53 farthings is a wide
range, and should express a wide difference of quality. I have on
several occasions, at long intervals apart, obtained samples of the
highest-priced Bermuda, and even ‘Missionary’ arrowroot, supposed to
be perfect, brought home by immaculate missionaries themselves, and
therefore worth 3_s._ 6_d._ per lb., and have compared this with the
‘St. Vincent and Natal.’ I find that the only difference is that on
boiling in a given quantity of water the Bermuda produces a somewhat
stiffer jelly, the which additional tenacity is easily obtainable by
using a little more of the 1½_d._ (or say 3_d._ to allow a profit on
retailing) to the same quantity of water. Both are starch, and starch
is neither more nor less than starch, unless it be that the best
Bermuda, sold at 3_s._ per lb., is starch _plus_ humbug.[15]
The ultimate chemical composition of starch is the same as that
of cellulose—carbon and the elements of water, and in the same
proportions; but the difference of chemical and physical properties
indicates some difference in the arrangement of these elements. It
would be quite out of place here to discuss the theories of molecular
constitution which such differences have suggested, especially as they
are all rather cloudy. The percentage is—carbon 44·4, oxygen 49·4,
and hydrogen 6·2. The difference between starch and cellulose that
most closely affects my present subject, that of digestibility, is
considerable. The ordinary food-forms of starch, such as arrowroot,
tapioca, rice, &c., are among the most easily digestible kinds of food,
while cellulose is peculiarly difficult of digestion; in its crude and
compact forms it is quite indigestible by human digestive apparatus.
Neither of them are capable of sustaining life alone; they contain none
of the nitrogenous material required for building up muscle, nerve, and
other animal tissue. They may be converted into fat, and may supply
fuel for maintaining animal heat, and may possibly supply some of the
energies demanded for organic work.
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