The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Sago, which is a starch obtained from the pith of the stem of the
sago-palm and other plants, is prepared in grains like tapioca, with
similar results. Both sago and tapioca contain a little gluten, and
therefore have more food-value than arrowroot.
The most familiar of our starch foods is the potato. I place it
among the starch foods as next to water; starch is its prevailing
constituent, as the following statement of average compositions will
show: Water, 75 per cent.; starch, 18·8; nitrogenous materials, 2;
sugar, 3; fat, 0·2; salts, 1. The salts vary considerably with the kind
and age of the potato, from 0·8 to 1·3 in full-grown. Young potatoes
contain more. In boiling potatoes, the change effected appears to
be simply a breaking up or bursting of the starch granules, and a
conversion of the nitrogenous gluten into a more soluble form, probably
by a certain degree of hydration. As we all know, there are great
differences among potatoes; some are waxy, others floury; and these,
again, vary according to the manner and degree of cooking. I cannot
find any published account of the chemistry of these differences, and
must, therefore, endeavour to explain them in my own way.
As an experiment, take two potatoes of the floury kind; boil or steam
them together until they are just softened throughout, or, as we say,
‘well done.’ Now leave one of them in the saucepan or steamer, and
very much over-cook it. Its floury character will have disappeared,
it will have become soft and gummy. The reader can explain this by
simply remembering what has already been explained concerning the
formation of dextrin. It is due to the conversion of some of the
starch into dextrin. My explanation of the difference between the
waxy and floury potato is that the latter is so constituted that
all the starch granules may be disintegrated by heat in the manner
already described before any considerable proportion of the starch is
converted into dextrin, while the starch of the waxy potatoes for some
reason, probably a larger supply of diastase, is so much more readily
convertible into dextrin, that a considerable proportion becomes gummy
before the whole of the granules are broken up, _i.e._ before the
potato is cooked or softened throughout.
I must here throw myself into the great controversy of jackets or no
jackets. Should potatoes be peeled before cooking, or should they be
boiled in their jackets? I say most decidedly in jackets, and will
state my reasons. From 53 to 56 per cent. of the above-stated saline
constituents of the potato is potash, and potash is an important
constituent of blood—so important that in Norway, where scurvy once
prevailed very seriously, it has been banished since the introduction
of the potato, and, according to Lang and other good authorities,
this is owing to the use of potatoes by a people who formerly were
insufficiently supplied with saline vegetable food.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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