The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Potash salts are freely soluble in water, and I find that the water in
which potatoes have been boiled contains potash, as may be proved by
boiling it down to concentrate, then filtering and adding the usual
potash test, platinum chloride.
It is evident that the skin of the potato must resist this passage of
the potash into the water, though it may not fully prevent it. The
bursting of the skin only occurs at quite the latter stage of the
cookery. The greatest practical authorities on the potato, Irishmen,
appear to be unanimous. I do not remember to have seen a pre-peeled
potato in Ireland. I find that I can at once detect by the difference
of flavour whether a potato has been boiled with or without its jacket,
and that this difference is evidently saline.
These considerations lead to another conclusion, viz. that baked
potatoes and fried potatoes, or potatoes cooked in such a manner as to
be eaten with their own broth, as in Irish stew (in which cases the
previous peeling does no mischief), are preferable to boiled potatoes.
Steamed potatoes probably lose less of their potash juices than when
boiled; but this is uncertain, as the modicum of distilled water
condensed upon the potato and continually renewed may wash away as much
as the larger quantity of hard water in which the boiled potato is
immersed.
Those who eat an abundance of fruit, of raw salads, and other
vegetables supplying a sufficiency of potash to the blood, may peel and
boil their potatoes; but the poor Irish peasant, who depends upon the
potato for all his sustenance, requires that they shall supply him with
potash.
When travelling in Ireland (I explored every county of that country
rather exhaustively during three successive summers when editing the
4th edition of Murray’s ‘Handbook’), I was surprised at the absence
of fruit-trees in the small farms where one might expect them to
abound. On speaking of this the reason given was that all trees are
the landlord’s property; that if a tenant should plant them they
would suggest luxury and prosperity, and therefore a rise of rent; or
otherwise stated, the tenant would be fined for thus improving the
value of his holding. This was before the passing of the Land Act,
which we may hope will put an end to such legalised brigandage. With
the abolition of rack-renting the Irish peasant may grow and eat fruit;
may even taste jam without fear and trembling; may grow rhubarb and
make pies and puddings in defiance of the agent. When this is the case,
his craving for potato-potash will probably diminish, and his children
may actually feed on bread.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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