The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
I have been told by an American lady that in the fatherland of
potatoes, as well as in their adopted country, they are always boiled
or steamed in their jackets: that American cooks, like those of
Ireland, would consider it an outrage to cut off the protecting skin
of the potato before cooking it; that they are more commonly mashed
there than here, and that the mashing is done by rapidly removing the
skins and throwing the stripped potato into a supplementary saucepan or
other vessel, in which they may be kept hot until the preparation is
completed.
As regards the nutritive value of the potato, it is well to understand
that the common notion concerning its cheapness as an article of food
is a fallacy. Taking Dr. Edward Smith’s figures, 760 grains of carbon
and 24 grains of nitrogen are contained in 1 lb. of potatoes; 2½ lbs.
of potatoes are required to supply the amount of carbon contained in
1 lb. of bread; and 3½ lbs. of potatoes are necessary for supplying
the nitrogen of 1 lb. of bread. With bread at 1½_d._ per lb., potatoes
should cost less than ½_d._ per lb. in order to be as cheap as bread
for the hard-working man who requires an abundance of nitrogenous food.
Potatoes contain 17 per cent. of carbon; oatmeal has 73 per cent.
Taking nitrogenous matter also into consideration, 1 lb. of oatmeal is
worth 6 lbs. of potatoes.
My own observations in Ireland have fully convinced me of the wisdom
of William Cobbett’s denunciation of the potato as a staple article of
food. The bulk that has to be eaten, and is eaten, in order to sustain
life, converts the potato feeder into a mere assimilating machine
during a largo part of the day, and renders him unfit for any kind of
vigorous mental or bodily exertion. If I were the autocratic Czar of
Ireland, my first step towards the regeneration of the Irish people
would be the introduction, acclimatising, and dissemination of the
Colorado beetle, in order to produce a complete and permanent potato
famine. The effect of potato feeding may be studied by watching the
work of a potato-fed Irish mower or reaper who comes across to work
upon an English farm where the harvestmen are fed in the farmhouse and
the supply of beer is not excessive. The improvement of his working
powers after two or three weeks of English feeding is comparable to
that of a horse when fed upon corn, beans, and hay, after feeding for a
year on grass only.
My strictures on the potato do not apply to them as used in England,
where the prevailing vice of our ordinary diet is that it is too
carnivorous. The potatoes we eat with our meat serve to dilute it, and
supply the farinaceous element in which flesh is deficient.
The reader may have observed that most of the starch foods are derived
from the roots or stems of plants. Many others are used in tropical
climates where little labour is demanded or done, and, therefore, but
little nitrogenous food required.
FOOTNOTE:
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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