The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
As already explained, the seed which is broken up into flour contains
diastase as well as starch, and this diastase, when aided by moisture
and moderate warmth, converts the starch into dextrin and sugar. This
action commences when the dough is made; this alone would only increase
the adhesiveness of the mass, if it went no further, but the sugar
thus produced may, by the aid of a suitable ferment, be converted into
alcohol. As the composition of alcohol corresponds to that of sugar,
minus carbonic acid, the evolution of carbonic acid gas is an essential
part of this conversion.
With these facts before us, their practical application in bread-making
is easily understood. To the water with which the flour is to be
moistened some yeast is added, and the yeast-cells, which are very
much smaller than the grains of flour, are diffused throughout the
water. The flour is moistened with this liquid, which only demands a
temperature of about 70° Fahr. to act with considerable energy on every
granule of flour that it touches. Instead, then, of the passive, lumpy,
tenacious dough produced by moistening the flour with mere water, a
lively ‘sponge,’ as the baker calls it, is produced, which ‘rises’
or grows in bulk by the evolution and interposition of millions of
invisibly small bubbles of gas. This sponge is mixed with more flour
and water, and kneaded and kneaded again to effect a complete and equal
diffusion of the gas bubbles, and finally, the porous mass of dough is
placed in an oven previously raised to a temperature of about 450°.
The baker’s old-fashioned method of testing the temperature of his oven
is instructive. He throws flour on the floor. If it blackens without
taking fire, the heat is considered sufficient. It might be supposed
that this is too high a temperature, as the object is to cook the
flour, not to burn it. But we must remember that the flour which has
been prepared for baking is mixed with water, and the evaporation of
this water will materially lower the temperature of the dough itself.
Besides this, we must bear in mind that another object is to be
attained. A hard shell or crust has to be formed, which will so encase
and support the lump of dough as to prevent it from subsiding when the
further evolution of carbonic acid gas shall cease, which will be the
case some time before the cooking of the mass is completed. It will
happen when the temperature reaches the point at which the yeast-cells
can no longer germinate, which temperature is considerably below the
boiling point of water.
In spite of this high outside temperature, that of the inner part of
the loaf is kept down to a little above 212° by the evaporation of
the water contained in the bread. The escape of this vapour and the
expansion of the carbonic acid bubbles by heat combine to increase the
porosity of the loaf.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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