The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
The outside being heated considerably above the temperature of the
inner part, this variation produces the differences between the
crust and the crumb. The action of the high temperature in directly
converting some of the starch into dextrin will be understood from what
I have already stated, and also the partial conversion of this dextrin
into caramel, which was described in Chapter VII.
Thus we have in the crust an excess of dextrin as compared with
the crumb, and the addition of a variable quantity of caramel. In
lightly-baked bread, with a crust of uniform pale yellowish colour, the
conversion of the dextrin into caramel has barely commenced, and the
gummy character of the dextrin coating is well displayed. Some such
bread, especially the long staves of life common in France, appear as
though they had been varnished, and their crust is partially soluble in
water.
This explains the apparent paradox that hard crust, or dry toast, is
more easily digested than the soft crumb of bread; the cookery of the
crumb not having been carried beyond the mere hydration of the gluten
and the starch, and such degree of dextrin formation as was due to
the action of the diastase of the grain during the preliminary period
of ‘rising.’ In the crust some of the work of insalivation is already
done by the baker. The digestibility of toast is doubtless aided by its
brittleness, causing it to be more broken up and mixed with the saliva.
Everybody has, of course, heard of ‘unfermented bread,’ and many have
tasted it. Several methods have been devised, some patented, for
effecting an evolution of gas in the dough without having recourse to
the fermentation above described. One of these is that of adding a
little hydrochloric acid to the water used in moistening the flour, and
mixing bicarbonate of soda in powder with the flour (to every 4 lbs.
of flour ½ oz. bicarbonate and 4½ fluid drachms of hydrochloric acid of
1·16 specific gravity). These combine and form sodium chloride, common
salt, with evolution of carbonic acid. The salt thus formed takes the
place of that usually added in ordinary bread-making, and the carbonic
acid gas evolved acts like that given off in fermentation; but the
rapidity of the action of the acid and carbonate presents a difficulty.
The bread must be quickly made, as the action is soon completed. It
does not go on steadily increasing and stopping just at the right
moment, as in the case of fermentation.
Other methods similar in principle have been adopted, such as adding
ammonia carbonate with the soda carbonate. The ammonia salt is volatile
itself, besides evolving carbonic acid by its union with the acid.
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