The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
In spite of the great amount of ingenuity expended upon the manufacture
of such unfermented bread, and the efforts to bring it into use, but
little progress has been made. The general verdict appears to be that
the unfermented bread is not so ‘sweet,’ that it lacks some element of
flavour, is ‘chippy’ or tasteless as compared with good old-fashioned
wheaten bread, free from alum or other adulteration. My theory of this
difference is that it is due to the absence of those changes which
take place while the sponge or dough is rising, when, if I am right,
the diastase of the grain is operating, as in germination, to produce
a certain quantity of dextrin and sugar, and possibly acting also on
the gluten. Deficiency of dextrin is, I think, the chief cause of the
chippy character of aerated bread. It must be remembered that, in
ordinary bread-making, the fermentation is protracted over several
hours, during which the temperature most favourable to germination is
steadily maintained.
The practical importance of the fermentation is strikingly shown by the
fact that, in the course of sponge rising, dough rising, and baking,
a loaf becomes about four times as large as the original mixture of
flour, water, &c., of which it was made; or, otherwise stated, an
ordinary loaf is made up of one part of solid bread to more than three
parts of air bubbles or pores. French rolls and some other kinds of
fancy bread are still more gaseous.
So far I have only named the flour, water, salt, and yeast. These,
with a little sugar or milk, added according to taste and custom, are
the ingredients of home-made bread, but ‘bakers’ bread’ is commonly,
though not necessarily, somewhat more complex. There is the material
technically known as ‘fruit,’ and another which bears the equivocal
name of ‘stuff,’ or ‘rocky.’ The _fruit_ are potatoes. The quantity
of these prescribed in Knight’s ‘Guide to Trade’ is one peck to the
sack of flour. This proportion is so small (about 3 per cent. by
weight) that, if not exceeded, it cannot be regarded as a fraudulent
adulteration, for the additional cost involved in the boiling,
skinning, and general preparing of the small addition exceeds the
saving in the price of raw material. The fruit, therefore, is not added
merely because it is cheaper than flour, as many people suppose.
The instructions concerning its use given in the work above named
clearly indicate that the potato flour is used to assist fermentation.
These instructions prescribe that the peck of potatoes shall be boiled
in their skins, mashed in the ‘seasoning tub,’ then mixed with two or
three quarts of water, the same quantity of patent yeast, and three or
four pounds of flour. The mixture is left to stand for six or twelve
hours, when it will have become what is called a _ferment_. After
straining through a sieve, to separate the skins of the fruit, it is
mixed with the sack of flour, water, &c.
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