The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
‘The cook knows _from experience_ that if his joint of meat be kept
a certain time immersed in boiling water it will be _done_, as it is
called in the language of the kitchen; but if he be asked what is done
to it, or _how_ or _by what agency_ the change it has undergone has
been effected—if he understands the question—it is ten to one but he
will be embarrassed. If he does not understand he will probably answer
without hesitation, that “_The meat is made tender and eatable by being
boiled_.” Ask him if the boiling of the water be essential to the
process. He will answer, “_Without doubt_.” Push him a little further
by asking him whether, _were it possible_ to keep the water _equally
hot_ without boiling, the meat would not be cooked _as soon_ and _as
well_ as if the water were made to boil. Here it is probable he will
make the first step towards acquiring knowledge by _learning to doubt_.’
In another place he points to the fact that at Munich, where his chief
cookery operations were performed, water boils at 209½° (on account
of its elevation), while in London the boiling-point is 212°. ‘Yet
nobody, I believe, ever perceived that boiled meat was less done at
Munich than at London. But if meat may without the least difficulty be
cooked with a heat of 209½° at Munich, why should it not be possible
to cook it with the same degree of heat in London? If this can be done
in London (which I think can hardly admit of a doubt), then it is
evident that the process of cookery, which is called _boiling_, may be
performed in water which is not boiling hot.’
He proceeds to say, ‘I well know, from my own experience, how difficult
it is to persuade cooks of this truth, but it is so important that no
pains should be spared in endeavouring to remove their prejudices and
enlighten their understandings. This may be done most effectually in
the case before us by a method I have several times put in practice
with complete success. It is as follows: Take two equal boilers,
containing equal quantities of _boiling hot water_, and put into them
two equal pieces of meat taken from the same carcase—two legs of
mutton, for instance—and boil them during the same time. Under one of
the boilers make a _small fire_, just barely sufficient to keep the
water _boiling hot_, or rather just _beginning to boil_; under the
other make _as vehement a fire as possible_, and keep the water boiling
the whole time with the utmost violence. The meat in the boiler in
which the water has been kept _only just boiling hot_ will be found to
be quite as well done as that in the other. It will even be found to
be much better cooked, that is to say tenderer, more juicy, and much
higher flavoured.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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