The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Such ensilage will correspond to that which occurs when we gather
Jersey or other superlatively fine pears in autumn as soon as they are
full grown. They are then hard, woody, and acid, quite unfit for food,
but by simply storing them for a month, or two, or three, they become
lusciously tender and sweet; the woody fibres are converted into sugar,
the acid neutralised, and all this by simply fulfilling the conditions
of ensilage, viz. close packing of the fibre, exclusion of air by the
thick rind of the fruit, _plus_ the other condition which I have just
suggested, viz. the diffusion of acid among the well-packed fibres of
the ensilage material.
In my experiments on the ensilage of human food I have encountered
the same difficulty as that which has troubled graziers in their
experiments, viz. that small-scale results do not fairly represent
those obtained with large quantities. There is besides this another
element of imperfection in my experiments respecting which I am bound
to be candid to my readers, viz. that the idea of thus extending the
principle was suggested in the course of writing this series, and,
therefore, a sufficient time has not yet elapsed to enable me (with
much other occupation) to do practical justice to the investigation.
I find that oatmeal-porridge is greatly improved by being made some
days before it is required, then stored in a closed jar, brought
forth and heated for use. The change effected is just that which
theoretically may be expected, viz. a softening of the fibrous
material, and a sweetening due to the formation of sugar. This
sweetening I observed many years ago in some gruel that was partly
eaten one night and left standing until next morning, when I thought
it tasted sweeter; but to be assured of this I had it warmed again two
nights afterwards, so that it might be tasted under the same conditions
of temperature, palate, &c., as at first. The sweetness was still more
distinct, but the experiment was carried no further.
I have lately learned that my ensilage notion is not absolutely new.
A friend who read my Cantor Lectures tells me that he has long been
accustomed to have his porridge made some days before eating it, then
having it warmed up when required. He finds the result more digestible
than newly-made porridge. The classical nine days’ old pease-pudding
is a similar anticipation, and I find, rather curiously, that nine
days is about the limit to which it may be practically kept in a cool
place before mildew—mouldiness—is sufficiently established to spoil
the pudding. I have not yet tried a barrel full of pease-pudding or
moistened pease-meal, closely covered and powerfully pressed down, but
hope to do so.
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