The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
Besides these we have a notable example of ensilage in sour-kraut—a
foreign luxury that John Bull, with his usual blindness, denounces,
as a matter of course. ‘Horrid stuff!’ ‘beastly mess!’ and such-like
expressions I hear whenever I name it to certain persons. Who are
these persons? Simply English men and English women who have never
seen, never tasted, and know nothing whatever of what they denounce
so violently, in spite of the fact that it is a staple article of food
among millions of highly-intelligent people. Common sense (to say
nothing of that highest result of true scientific training, the faculty
of suspending judgment until the arrival of knowledge) should suggest
that some degree of investigation should precede the denunciation.
In the cases of the sour-kraut and the ripening pear there is acid at
work upon the fibre, which, as I have before stated, assists in the
conversion of this indigestible constituent into soluble and digestible
dextrin and sugar.
The demand for the solution of the vegetable casein or legumin, which
has such high nutritive value and is so abundant in peas, &c., is of
the opposite kind. Acids solidify and harden casein, alkalies soften
and dissolve it. Therefore the chemical agent suggested as a suitable
aid in the ensilage or slow cookery, or the boiling or rapid cookery,
of leguminous food is such an alkali as may be wholesome and compatible
with the demands for nutrition.
The analyses of peas, beans, lentils, &c., show a deficiency of
potash salts as compared with the quantity of nitrogenous nutriment
they contain; therefore I propose, as in the case of cheese food,
that we should add this potash in the convenient and safe form of
bicarbonate—not merely add it to the water in which the vegetables may
be boiled, and which water is thrown away (as in the common practice
of adding soda when boiling greens), but add the potash to the actual
pease-porridge, pease-pudding, lentil soup, &c., and treat it as a part
of the food as well as an adjunct to the cookery. This is especially
required when we use dried peas, dried beans of any kind, such as
haricots, dried lentils, &c.
I find that taking the ordinary yellow split-peas and boiling them
in a weak solution of bicarbonate of potash for two or three hours, a
partial solution of the casein is effected, producing pease-pudding, or
pease-porridge, or _purée_ (according to the quantity of water used),
which is softer and more gelid than that which is obtained by similarly
boiling without the potash. The undissolved portion evidently consists
of the fibrous tissue of the peas, the gelatinous or dissolved portion
being the starch, with more or less of casein. I say ‘more or less,’
because at present I have not been able to determine whether or not the
casein is _all_ rendered soluble.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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