The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
As already stated, I have found, in carrying out these instructions,
that I obtain a _purée_ or porridge rather than a soup. I found
the No. 1 to be excellent, No. 2 inferior. It was better when very
small potatoes were used; they became more jellied, and the _purée_
altogether had less of the granular texture of mashed potatoes. I
found it necessary to conduct the whole of the cooking myself; the
inveterate kitchen superstition concerning simmering and boiling, the
belief that anything rapidly boiling is hotter than when it simmers,
and is therefore cooking more quickly, compels the non-scientific cook
to shorten the tedious three-hour process by boiling. This boiling
drives the water from below, bakes the lower stratum of the porridge,
and spoils the whole. The ordinary cook, were she ‘at the strappado,
or all the racks in the world,’ would not keep anything barely boiling
for three hours with no visible result. According to her positive and
superlative experience, the mess is cooked sufficiently in one-third of
the time, as soon as the peas are softened. She don’t, and she won’t,
and she can’t, and she shan’t understand anything about hydration.
‘When it’s done, it’s done, and there’s an end to it, and what more do
you want?’ Hence the failures of the attempts to introduce Rumford’s
porridge in our English workhouses, prisons, and soup kitchens. I find,
when I make it myself, that it is incomparably superior and far cheaper
than the ‘skilly’ at present provided, though the sample of skilly that
I tasted was superior to the ordinary slop.
The weight of each portion, as served to the beggars, &c., was 19·9 oz.
(1 Bavarian pound); the solid matter contained was 6 oz. of No. 2, or
4¾ oz. of No. 1, and Rumford states that this ‘is quite sufficient to
make a good meal for a strong, healthy person,’ as ‘abundantly proved
by long experience.’ He insists, again and again, upon the necessity of
the three-hours’ cooking, and I am equally convinced of its necessity,
though, as above explained, not on the same theoretical grounds. No
repetition of his experience is fair unless this be attended to. I have
no hesitation in affirming that the 4¾ oz. of No. 1, when thus boiled
for 3 hours, will supply more nutriment than 6 oz. boiled only 1½ hour.
The bread should _not_ be cooked, but added just before serving the
soup. In reference to this he has published a very curious essay,
entitled ‘Of the Pleasure of Eating, and of the Means that may be
Employed for Increasing it.’
Rumford used wood as fuel, and his kitchen-ranges were constructed of
brickwork with a separate fire for each pot, the pot being set in in
the brickwork immediately above the fireplace in such manner that the
flame and heated products of combustion surrounded the pot on their way
to the exit flue. The quantity of fuel was adjusted to each operation,
and with wood embers a long sustained moderate heat was easily obtained.
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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