The Chemistry of CookeryWilliams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Science
The Chemistry of Cookery
Williams, W. Mattieu (William Mattieu)
Cooking
With coal-fires such separate firing would be troublesome, as
coal cannot be so easily kindled on requirement as wood. With our
roaring, wasteful kitchen furnaces and still more wasteful cooks, the
long-sustained moderate heat is not practicable without some further
device. I found that, by using a ‘milk scalder,’ which is a water-bath
similar to a glue-pot, but on a large scale, I could obtain Rumford’s
results over a common kitchen-range with very little trouble, and no
risk of baking the bottom part of the porridge.
I further found that even a longer period of stewing than he prescribes
is desirable.
I made a hearty meal on No. 1 soup, and found it as satisfactory as
any dinner of meat, potatoes, &c., of any number of courses; and,
as a chemist, I assert without any hesitation, that such a meal is
demonstrably of equal or superior nutritive value to an ordinary
Englishman’s slice of beef diluted with potatoes. The No. 2 soup is
not so satisfactory. Rumford was wrong in his estimate of the value of
potatoes.
In the formula for Rumford’s soup it is stated that the bread
should not be cooked, but added just before serving the soup. Like
everything else in his practical programmes, this was prescribed with
a philosophical reason. His reasons may have been fanciful sometimes,
but he never acted stupidly, as the vulgar majority of mankind usually
do when they blindly follow an established custom without knowing any
reason for so doing, or even attempting to discover a reason.
In his essay on ‘The Pleasure of Eating, and of the Means that may be
Employed for Increasing it,’ he says: ‘The pleasure enjoyed in eating
depends, first, on the agreeableness of the taste of the food; and,
secondly, upon its power to affect the palate. Now, there are many
substances extremely cheap, by which very agreeable tastes may be given
to food, particularly when the basis or nutritive substance of the food
is tasteless; and the effect of any kind of palatable solid food (of
meat, for instance) upon the organs of taste may be increased, almost
indefinitely, by reducing the size of the particles of such food, and
causing it to act upon the palate by a larger surface. And if means be
used to prevent its being swallowed too soon, which may easily be done
by mixing it with some hard and tasteless substance, such as crumbs
of bread rendered hard by toasting, or anything else of that kind, by
which a long mastication is rendered necessary, the enjoyment of eating
may be greatly increased and prolonged.’ He adds that ‘the idea of
occupying a person a great while, and affording him much pleasure at
the same time in eating a small quantity of food, may perhaps appear
ridiculous to some; but those who consider the matter attentively
will perceive that it is very important. It is perhaps as much so as
anything that can employ the attention of the philosopher.’
Public-domain text, read in full here on John Shaqi.
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